Choosing Your Aquarium Fish - 5 Important Tips

A short summary on what you should know before you purchase fish for an aquarium:
 
1. The type of the fish is extremely important. If you choose multiple fish species, make sure they are compatible. There are some predator fish species that must not be placed with calm and sociable fish for example. If you are a beginner, choose a species that doesn’t require that much care, that doesn’t need special living conditions. Also, choose a docile and friendly fish. It will be easier to have in the aquarium because it won’t cause trouble

2. Before buying any kind of fish, no matter the race, make sure the fish are healthy. Do that first by observation. Notice any change in the mood, swimming etc. check the fins and the scales, make sure they don’t have bumps or bruises. Also, buy the fish from local pet shops or from well known breeders. If you see fish that hang around on the bottom of the tank, that could be a sign that they might have an internal health problem. Besides that, if the fish is too active and jumps around all over the place, that could be an illness indication. It is better to keep away from these fish.
 
3. After choosing a species and checking the health status, also ask about the fish’s temperament. That is strictly connected to the water living conditions. Ask the breeder or the local pet store people what are the general living conditions of the fish. Stretch on the water temperature because that is very important. Keep in mind that saltwater fish prefer a different temperature than the freshwater fish.
 
4. Another aspect worthy of considering is the fish’s size. You will need to buy a tank. The size of the tank depends on the size of the fish. If it will grow to a considerable size, it is better to buy a big tank from the start rather than a small one and change it later, when the fish is adult.
 
5. Finally, make sure you know what your fish likes to eat. If you give him the wrong type of food that could seriously damage his health.  Many fish have different eating habits. Besides that, also ask about the price of the food for that fish. Make sure you can afford it before you purchase the fish.
 These are a few tips on how to become a fish owner. Nevertheless, continue to document on your self and learn as much as you can about fish caring.
 

African Tooth Carp (Aphyosemion)

The Genus Aphyosemion African Tooth Carp is the most favorite Carp Species because they are some of the most beautiful fish in the tank.
One main recommendation from the fish breeders is that you use female carps and not males because the males can’t stand to be near other males fish. They become highly aggressive and they fight. They also like glass tanks, rather than other material.

And when a Genus Aphyosemion dies, he dies quickly and it is recommended they have their own aquarium. During the dying ritual, so to speak, the fish will hide, mostly in the corners of the aquarium and fold the fins.

Other tank suggestions include adding a lot of plants into the aquarium. The Genus Aphyosemion African Tooth Carp likes a shady environment with many plants that float. They also like slightly acid water or a bit hard. Some carps need an alkaline environment when they breed. This is why, in the mating season, is recommended to add a teaspoon of table salt to a gallon of water. Some breeders suggest covering the bottom of the tank with some purified overcooked peat.

Like it was said before, this species does not live long and it is recommended to have private aquariums and also to separate the fish in categories.
There are 3 categories: midlevel breeders, surface breeders, and the bottom breeders.

The midlevel breeders love smooth leaf plants because the eggs like to stick to them. The surface breeders should have some floating plants to stick their eggs to them and the bottom breeders should have some peat, on the bottom area of the aquarium.

Use nylon mops to preserve fry, by inserting them into the tank to preserve fry. Keep in mind that any carp species eats their own children. After the eggs have been laid, it is safer to remove the parent to another tank.

During breeding, it is good to keep the water temperature to 25 degrees Fahrenheit, unless the fish are in peaty waters. If they are in peaty waters, the temperature must be around 65 degrees Fahrenheit. During breeding, raise the temperature to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Also, if you want the fish to breed, don’t dry the peaty because the fish will die. Also, when you refresh the tank water, shake the peat just a little.

Be careful and make sure the peat at the bottom of the tank is sterilized. The bottom breeders also need floating plants. Sometimes it is easier to remove the bottom spawners and put them in a smaller tank. Don’t forget to remove the parent fish from the tank because the water needs to be siphoned. When you do the siphoning, avoid the eggs and peat area. Do the siphoning with a small tube. Before the breeding starts and during it, the water temperature should be at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. After the eggs are laid, keep it like that for two weeks more. When all is done, change back the temperature to 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Also, when you do the egg transfer, adjust the temperature to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. After that, you can break the peat up into lumps.

This fish species is not recommended for first timers. Avoid it if you never had an aquarium before. Other types of Carp are easier to take care of.

Choose the Brachydanio Rerio or Zebra Danio. They come from Eastern regions of India and are less demanding than the Carp. They look like a small cylinder and the colors are very attractive. Some of the colors are: silver, gold, blue, and black. The Rerio is quite smart, enjoys a peaceful tank environment, and is less demanding about food. It will eat most foods. Also, they don’t need special water conditions.

But if you are a beginner and you got this species, there are many starters’ kits on the market that will help you with good and practical advices.

Tropical Aquarium - Should incandescent or fluorescent light be used?

Some reflectors are fitted with sockets for a fluorescent tube instead of incandescent bulbs. There is a good deal of controversy concerning the relative merits of the two systems. Experiments conducted by Dr. C. W. Coates at the New York Aquarium indicated that a combination of both incandescent and fluorescent lighting gives the most satisfactory results. His experiments also showed that light, in order to be satisfactory, must be directed from above. Light from the side has a greatly decreased value.

It is impractical for the average hobbyist with a small or medium aquarium to use both types of light, however. Properly used, either will give a satisfactory growth to the average aquarium plant, although it may not necessarily give maximum growth.

The initial outlay for a fluorescent fixture is slightly higher than that for an incandescent. This is offset by the fact that a fluorescent bulb consumes much less current. Also, the higher cost of a replacement tube for a fluorescent is balanced by its longer life. In addition, fluorescent fixtures give a stronger, more even light, and they do not heat up the aquarium. This is particularly important during the summer, when preventing any increase in the already high water temperature and yet supplying enough light for the plants can be a problem. When using a fluorescent, the red end of the spectrum should be favored for color because it is the most beneficial. White, cold white, and daylight bulbs are not so satisfactory as warm tints, warm tones, or deluxe warm whites.

As with an incandescent, the time for the required for the fluorescent to obtain results is extremely variable. In general it should burn two to three times as long as an incandescent reflector under comparable circumstances.

For tanks of 20 to 30 gallons in capacity, the standard reflector holds a 20-watt bulb. It is frequently necessary to burn a bulb of this size twenty-four hours a day in order to achieve satisfactory plant growth. For smaller tanks, sixteen to twenty hours of light a day is usually necessary. If it is inconvenient to turn the light on and off at the time necessary to provide the proper illumination, it is perfectly satisfactory to burn the light twelve hours one day and twenty four hours on alternate days.

One of the most satisfactory tanks I had experience with was a 27-gallon aquarium owned by a businessman. It measured 36 inches long by 12 inches wide by 14 inches high, and was equipped with a 20-watt warm-white fluorescent fixture which burned continually. The plant and fish growth in that tank was phenomenal. Ambulia, Amazon Sword Plants, Hygrophila, and Cryptocoryne of different species grew in profusion. Magnificent fish luxuriated among the dense growth. No attention was given to the tank other than feeding and replacing water lost through evaporation. Every month a pet shop owner was called in to siphon the bottom clean, and to remove a pailful of excess plant growth.

Introducing Fish into the Tropical Aquarium

Many people receive fishes shipped from out-of-town sources. Often prompt and proper action must be taken upon their arrival to insure their continued life.

Examine the carton carefully before opening it. If it is wet or damaged, mark the fact on the receipt before signing it. Make the carrier wait and watch while you open the shipment. Check the water temperature immediately. Do not remove any fishes which appear to be dead, unless they are obviously decayed or physically damaged. Many tropical fish can be revived.

If the water is below 70° F., it is important to warm it to a higher temperature. Do not remove the fishes and put them into other warmer water. Instead, add warm water to the original water. Stir as you add the warm water to prevent hot water from touching the fishes. Warming the water slowly is dangerous. The fishes may die before the water gets warm enough to help them.

Once a desired temperature has been reached, change part of the water for fresh water. If the original water was foul, continue making partial changes at intervals until the water is clear. The water which is dipped out is thrown away. This process over a period of hours will give the fishes a chance to adjust to the different composition of your water.

Fishes bought from local source are usually brought home in a small container. These containers should be allowed to float unopened in the aquarium for fifteen minutes. This allows the water in the container to equal the temperature of the tank water. Remove the cover carefully. The fishes are likely to jump as soon as they see the light. Partially submerge the container slowly so that some water from the tank gradually runs into it. Pour out part of the water and repeat. Do this several times before completely submerging the container and letting the fishes swim out.

When transferring fishes from one tank to another, the same procedure is followed. Dip some of the fishes’ own water out in a container and place the fishes in that for transferring. It is unnecessary to float the container first,

Many aquarists maintain newly acquired fishes in separate tanks for ten days or two weeks. This helps to reveal any latent disease before it might be transmitted to the other fishes. During this time strict isolation is practiced. Utensils (net, dip tube, etc.) are disinfected, water drips are avoided, and even hands are scrubbed and rinsed thoroughly before going from one tank to the other.

A fairly good isolation ward for two or three small fishes is a squat one-gallon jar floating in the aquarium. By experimenting with the amount of water in the jar you can determine the proper amount to keep it upright and buoyant. This type of jar can be used for breeding also. A breeding trap, with its perforations which permit the circulation of water, is of course valueless for isolation.

Maintaining Perfect Water Conditions in Aquarium

According to some studies made by specialists, there are more than 20,000 types of fish in the world. As you can imagine it’s practically impossible to comprise all tips on how to take care of aquariums in a single article. That’s why here you can find a careful collection of basic instructions that will help you take care of your fish. You’ll need to learn as much as possible about the toxins in the water and about the maintenance of the aquariums.

Fish live in water and that’s why the aquarium is the perfect habitat for them outside the sea or the ocean. Usually these containers look like big glass boxes with plants and fish inside them. The fish can breathe thanks to the oxygen supplies in the water and that’s why healthy plants and fish need clean water. Also, the temperature plays an important role because its essence cannot be controlled by fish. You can use humidifiers and dehumidifiers and the air temperature will be well balanced. Last but not least, you must have some fish gauges that will monitor the water’s temperature.

Both toxins and bacteria affect the fish that live in the aquariums faster than in the natural habitat because in aquariums no natural fighters can stop the contaminants.

The quality of water is highly important for the fish that live in it even if these are fresh water or salt water creatures. Both species have special maintenance methods and below you can read the most important two of them.

Before eliminating any toxins you’ll have to understand the way they act. The toxins (chlorine, copper, metals) can be produced by the fish and also by the water supplies. The metabolism of any type of fish produces transparent pungent gases that are water soluble.

Usually the water is purified with additives like Chlorine and Chloramine which combined will fight the bacteria living the ground water and water pipes.

A test kit will help you deal with the toxic waste because it will let you know when the aquarium is too contaminated. Also, it’s recommended that you use pre-treatment water and filters.

Many people don’t know how to obtain pre-treated water. 1 mg of sodium THIO-sulfate mixed with water and 1% sodium with 10 gallons of water will kill the chlorine. In order to remove Chlorine and Chloramine you’ll have to use some special products that use certain mixtures of chemicals.

Fresh air is very important and that’s why every now and then you’ll have to expose the container to it. Also, the gas once converted into liquid will produce carbon dioxide that will destroy all the toxins.
The test kit will let you know if there are coppers or metal in the tank and if the answer is yes you’ll have to use purified toxins or spring water to clear the bacteria.

Last but not least, heap products connected to the tap water will eliminate the toxins.
Your fish are very important and if you love them you must make sure that they stay healthy all the time. All the above mentioned instructions will help you take care of the aquarium in order to provide the best habitat for those lovely little swimmers.

Tiger Barb (Barbus Tetrazona)

The Tiger Barb fish is native to Sumatra and Borneo and it’s also known as the Sumatran Barb. This fresh water fishes original habitat would have been a tropical area where the water temperature was fairly high, and they would be located in fairly shallow water of either medium to fast moving streams, or swampy lakes.

Puntius tetrazona is the scientific name of this fish and it can reach a length of 6cm (2.4 inches). It belongs to the Cyprinidae (minnow) family.

This is a very widely kept fresh water fish species and rates at about the 10th most popular ornamental fish species.

The water temperature in the aquarium should vary between 20 and 25C (68 to 77F). The water should be either medium-hard or soft. They can be fed plant matter, crustaceans, worms and dried food. They need a good balance of meat and vegetable matter. A quality flake food is a good start but this should be supplemented with foods such as bloodworms and zucchini.

A fish that is colorful and quite good looking, the Tiger Barb’s base color is orange. There are four stripes, colored black, vertical on his body.

This fish is great for a beginner, as long as your aquarium is big enough. You should keep a minimum of 5 fish of the same type in the tank, because they enjoy shoaling. If there aren’t enough of them, they might become aggressive with other species you might keep in the tank. In such cases, they will nibble on the fins of those fish, especially when they have fins that are long and trailing.

You shouldn’t keep Guppies or Angelfish in the same aquarium with Tiger Barbs. You can think of these fish as the bad boys of the aquarium as they do tend to be fin nippers and are often aggressive towards more timid fish. Ideally you should keep no less than 5 fish from the barb species, because smaller shoals will be more likely to show this territorial behavior and attack their neighbors. In fact the larger the group the better, as this will encourage them to leave the gentler fish alone.

Tiger barbs should ideally be kept in a tank with a pH between 6 and 8, and a dH of 5-19.

Breeding the Tiger Barbs is possible. They reach sexual maturity when they are around 2 to 3 centimeters at the young age of about 8 weeks. The female is larger than the male and has a plumper belly, she also has a black dorsal fin. You should let them choose their pair on their own, and once they do that, move the fish to another aquarium, where they can leave the eggs. Once the eggs are laid, take the adults out of the tank and get them back inside the community aquarium. If they are left with the eggs, they will eat them.

This species will also enjoy shoaling with Golden and Green Barbs, so you can create aquariums with plenty of variety in them. You should place enough vegetation on the aquarium edges while leaving enough room for them to swim. Pieces of wood, rocks, and plenty of plants will be appreciated. The length of the aquarium should be at least 60cm (24 inches).