Explore Your Creativity With An Aquarium

Tropical fish one of the most amazing pets that one could keep in their home or workplace. Tropical aquarium keeping is fast becoming an extremely popular hobby for many people young and old. Whether it is a small fishbowl with just a few fish or a 4 foot deluxe aquarium, tropical fish will make a beautiful center piece or highlight of any room.

There is nothing more relaxing than coming home after a hard day at work and watching your beautiful tropical aquarium with the fishes peacefully swimming around your carefully placed decorations and aquarium plants. You can set up your tank to show you a complex array of rock’s, wood, plants, and other decorations or you can aim for the simplistic approach. Either way you can express your own creativity, likes, and dislikes in how you choose to create your tropical fishes home.

With the popularity of tropical fish tanks, there is a wide variety of different types of decorations to choose from. Some people choose to take a humorous approach by setting up animated figures and cartoon characters, or skeletons and skulls. You could choose a medieval theme with castles and dragons, or keep it more natural with some fancy pieces of wood and rock.

Another big decision tropical fish I knows me to make is whether to have live plants, fake plants, or no plants at all in their aquarium. Of course this decision will be influenced by the type of fish you choose to keep in your tropical tank. Some fish will benefit more from having live plants in the aquarium while others will eat them quicker than they have a chance to lay their root’s. There are also a great many different species of plants available in a wide array of colors and features.

Whether to use rocks in your fish tank also depends on the species of fish you wishing to keep. For example some species such as cichlids need sheltered areas to claim their own territory, otherwise they may become aggressive towards the more timid fish in the aquarium. On the other hand there are species such as shoaling fish that will be a lot happier in a tank with wide open areas for them to swim in. If you decide to use real rocks you must be extremely careful where you get them from and that they are safe for use in aquariums. If in doubt fake rock’s are a good alternative.

Pieces of wood in an aquarium will also help fish that need area to claim as their own and more timid fish that like to have an area of safe retreat. If you are lucky enough to find a unique piece of wood that is safe for aquarium use it can be a very attractive addition to your aquarium. Live plants may even start growing around the wood and mosses will be attracted to its surface.

In summary how you choose to decorate your tropical fish tank is a very personal choice and one which will allow you to become very experimental and discover the creative side that you never knew you had. There are no rules or limitations that she must abide by as long as you put the health and well-being of your precious tropical fish first and foremost.

Bunch plants and Floating Plants for Aquariums

These plants take their name from the fact that they are frequently sold in bunches of individual stalks bound together with a rubber band or a strip of lead. In these plants the roots serve primarily as anchors. Growth occurs at the tip. If the tip is broken off, a new one will form; when the stem is injured, a branch often develops. In fact, if the stalk of a bunch plant is thrust into the gravel upside down, a new tip will form at the upper end, and the lower end will develop anchoring roots. The same holds true when a piece of the center section is cut out and planted.

Many bunch plants will grow even while floating freely in water. They show a tendency to root, however, sending down long, thin roots. When these roots reach the gravel, as frequently happens in a shallow aquarium, they anchor firmly and, not infrequently, draw the plant down to the gravel.

The main problem with newly purchased bunch plants is that of anchoring them. They seldom have enough root structure to hold them in place. For this reason it is advisable to plant them in a bunch, retaining the little lead band around them as a weight. Lead is relatively inactive, and a small amount does no harm in the aquarium.

Many bunch plants have a tendency to grow long and shed leaves from the base. The best way to keep this tendency under control is by uprooting the plant, cutting off the lower portion, and reroofing the upper. If there is a bushy, branching growth, snip off the tip occasionally.

Floating plants are the plants most frequently used as hiding places for baby fishes. Some of them occasionally put out anchors, called “holdfasts,” and these fasten on rocks or submerged bark. Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum), which is frequently sold as a bunch plant, is really a floating plant. It never develops roots. In others, such as Duckweed (Lemna minor), Salvinia (Salvinia natans), or Water Hyacinth (Eichornia crassipes), roots are present, but they do not root into anything. They merely float freely below the plant. Not all floating plants float at the surface. Some tropical aquarium fishes such as Chain of Stars and Stonewort (Nitella gracilis), float at the bottom. Reproduction is usually asexual, that is, without flowers.

What is an air release for a Fish Tank?

This is a small block, usually of porous stone, which serves to break the air passed through it into small bubbles. The quality of the stone is judged by how small a bubble it can produce, while at the same time offering a minimum of resistance to the passage of air.

Reeds are frequently used as aerators. While not particularly efficient, they have the merit of being inexpensive. There are several chrome and stainless-steel aerators on the market today. They use a felt or nylon disc to break up the air. They have an adjustable screw which, by compressing or releasing the fibrous disc, allows smaller or larger bubbles to escape. There are also a number of so-called ornamental air releases on the market, such as divers, frogs, mermaids, etc. If they are efficient, if you like them and they are not made of toxic materials, by all means get one.

The purposes of aeration are many, for example, to circulate the water gently, thus providing even temperature, and to make filter operation more effective. The prime purpose of aeration, however, is to drive off the carbon dioxide and allow a greater absorption of oxygen.

A certain amount of oxygen is absorbed from the bubbles as they rise through the water. By far the most effective action takes place at the surface, however. It is the agitation on the surface that gives the best results. As a practical matter, any agitation of the surface will produce the desire results. A small paddle, an electric fan blowing over it, or a drip of water all will aerate the water. A filter also provides a good deal of aeration.

Best results are obtained from a fairly small bubble. A fine, misty bubble does not agitate the water enough. A burst of large bubbles may agitate it too much; also, efficiency is lost with the larger bubbles, since less surface area is being presented to the water for operated; only one valve is necessary. This must be a three-way valve; that is, one with three outlets of those connections. The threaded screw controls the opening of the center outlet. The two opposing valves are a by-pass, always remaining open. The square flat tab is usually slipped under the edge of the tank, in back, where the weight of the tank holds it in place. An air tube connects the pump to one of the by-pass outlets. Another piece of flexible plastic tubing connects the center outlet to the air-lift tube, and the aerator is connected to the remaining outlet.

The air, of course, takes the path of least resistance. With the valve opened, all the air will pass through the filter, as this offers less resistance to the passage of air. By slowly closing the valve, air will be held back and will seek an outlet through the aerator. Adjust the valve to assure an even flow of air through the aerator. Fishes do not like to live in a storm, so it is good practice to maintain only a gentle flow of air.

To connect a greater number of outlets on one or more tanks, use a three-way valve for each outlet required, a two-way valve at the end. The opposing arms are used to continue the line, with the filter or aerator always connected to the center outlet. Although it is convenient to slip the tab under the base of the tank, it is more practical to fasten the valves to a point above the tank. This eliminates the possibility of water siphoning back through the air line.

Essential Tools to Start a Tropical Fish Tank

There is a wide variety of tools which help you maintain health in your aquarium. Some of these tools are: filters, ornaments, gravel, air pumps, plants, nets, water treatments, siphons, scrapers, and many more.

The gravel for Tropical Fish Tanks

Buy gravel from pet stores. The workers there will help you choose the best one and even give you advice. They will recommend you the pre-washed gravel. You will only need to rinse it a little before putting it into the aquarium. It is clean and sterile. If you get non-washed gravel, you have to boil, cleanse, and prepare it before putting it into the tank. The low quality gravel affects the pH water levels in your tank so buy the best one.

Filters for tropical fish tanks

The filters keep away all the harmful chemicals. There are many types of filters to choose from: chemical, biological, or mechanical. Every type removes fish waste like debris and ammonia. The filters have under-gravel, internal, and external filters. The best ones, and the most costly ones, are the external filters. Breeders recommend combining under-gravel filters with external or internal filters.

Plants for tropical fish tanks

Plants are amazing because they play a double role. They regulate the CO2 and oxygen levels in the tank and also play an aesthetic role. Choose plants that don’t grow higher than the water tank. Also ask the pet shop sales persons to recommend you plants depending on the fish species you have. There are some fish species that like some particular plant types. Generally, marine water plants and fish plants are the best choice.

Ornaments for tropical fish tanks
On the market you will find a wide variety of aquarium ornaments of different shapes and colors. Ask a breeder before buying an ornament. Not all of them are good for the fish. For example, the plastic ornaments sometimes can cause damage to the fish.

After you buy some ornaments, before introducing them into the tank, it is good to boil them and clean the properly. Get advice on how to do that and help from pet shop sales people.

Air pumps for tropical fish tanks
Among the vital components of your aquarium, the air pump plays a key role. It helps the air to circulate and that increases the rates of oxygen.
Do a little research on the Internet before buying one and then go to talk to some professionals. Also, you will find in the shops many types of air pumps. Read all that’s written on the labels and be careful about details. Ask for advice if you don’t understand something and make sure the pump you buy is for the size of your aquarium.

Test kits for tropical fish tanks
Besides all the tools specified by now, you also must have some test kits. With these scientifically aquarium gadgets you will monitor the quality of water. In this way, you will be sure that your tank water doesn’t have unwanted substances like ammonia, nitrates, or nitrites, and many others. Also test the pH levels as well. Always remember that fish produce ammonia through waste. The ammonia turns into non-toxic nitrites, which fish like to eat.

Water treatments for tropical fish tanks
The purity of the water is very important in maintaining fish health. The tap water is full of chlorine and chloramines, dangerous for the fish. These two substances can really do damage to your fish skin and digestion system. You need to treat the water before you put the fish in the tank. Chlorine treatments are ideal and you can find water treatments in any pet shop.

And if you are a beginner and just got your first aquarium, buy a starter kit. It will have everything you need to take care of your fish and keep them happy. You can find more information about this if you go online and search.

What is a Balanced Aquarium?

Originally the concept of a balanced aquarium was that the standing aquarium is a self-contained microcosm - a little world. The theory ran that as the plants manufactured food through the process of photosynthesis; they utilized carbon dioxide and gave off oxygen. Fishes, on the other hand, gave off carbon dioxide and utilized oxygen. Fishes’ waste, according to the theory, fertilized the plants, while excess plant growth provided food for the fishes. One thing thus balanced another, and no outside care was required.

Unfortunately this theory simply does not hold up in practice. While plants do give off oxygen in excess of what they use for respiration, they do so only in the presence of bright light. When the aquarium is dark, they use up oxygen just as do the fishes. Water cannot store more oxygen than the amount required to keep it in equilibrium with the air above it. Excess oxygen passes off readily. The same does not hold true of carbon dioxide. It tends to stratify, forming layers along the bottom. (Circulation prevents this stratification.) Having a maximum air surface in proportion to the depth thus goes a long way toward keeping the aquarium properly “balanced.”

The waste matter produced by the fish is far in excess of the amount required by the plants. Moreover, most of our aquarium fishes are carnivorous, eating animal, not vegetable, matter. Even the more herbivorous species require some animal food.

So the idea of a “balanced aquarium” is a fallacy in its original concept. An “aquarium in balance” is, however, what can be achieved.

The factors that modify an aquarium more or less balance each other includes the proper amount of light (too much over stimulates algae, too little does not permit plant growth); the proper amount of food (too little stunts the fishes, too much pollutes the aquarium); the proper number of fishes; the correct size of aquarium, and the proper temperature, etc. All of these things must be in proper “balance” with respect to themselves and the others if the aquarium is to flourish.

Treating The Water In Your Aquarium

The water in the tank is a vital element for the fish. Its quality has to be very good and appropriate for the type of fish you have.There are some general aspects common to every fish species. For example, all fish like a pH measurement of acid and/or base water. Usually, the best pH level is between 6.5 and 7.5. Lower concentrations or higher damage the fish’s health.

What about the water type?
You need water treatments to improve the tap water you put in your tank.
Depending on the species, fish like water types like: soft water, hardness, saltwater, alkalinity and so on. The alkalinity of the water is established by a series of test results. Alkalinity is good for the fish, because it regulates the pH balance. The hard water has a lot of minerals, which is often unregulated. Soft water on the other hand, can’t produce dissolved minerals and if the water is made soft by different machines, is doesn’t have a big amount of minerals.

Water treatments

All water treatments have NH3, NO2, and NO3. NH3 is the symbol for ammonia, NO2 is the symbol for nitrites and NO3 is for nitrates. Don’t forget that fish produce ammonia naturally with their waste. The ammonia then becomes nitrites.

If you don’t have experience in owning fish, you should use a kit to test the tank water before introducing fish into the aquarium. The kits have different tools that will indicate the level of nitrites, chlorine, ammonia, nitrates, or any other chemicals in the water.

There a common myth which says that salt must be added to the water in the tank. That is not true. Salt can damage the fish skin. Only some tropical fish species like salt in the water because it relieves stress.

Many people use tap water to fill the tank. This water has big amounts of chloramines and chlorine. Fish, unlike us, can’t survive if they ingest chlorine or chloramines. Besides these two substances, the tap water also has hypochlorite, used to disinfect it.

Before you fill the tank with water, let it stand a bit to remove the chemicals or let the tap run for five minutes.

Ideal is to purify the water with treatments that contain solutions that are decholorinator-based. The decholorinator cleans of chloramines but the bad thing is that it releases ammonia.

Verify the tap water before you put it into the tank. Do this before buying any water treatment.

You can find out what your water contains by calling the local water company. Explain to them what your problem is so that they understand why you inquire upon the water contents.

Normally, tap water has copper, chloramines, chlorine, metal, phosphates, and Trichloroethylene.

If you discover that your tap water has chlorinate, use a water treatment, like thiosulphate dechlorinators that are sodium based.

But if there are other substances in the water, talk to someone from your local pet store and ask for advice. They will tell you what kind of water treatment to use.

Besides purchasing an aquarium and fish, you will also need to clean the tank and use buckets, nets a hose and other accessories that can be found in the pet store. And don’t forget to stay up to date on the latest aquarium water treatments.

Tropical Fish Tanks - How To Deal With Aquarium Algae

Algae grow easily in the aquarium tanks, especially on the walls. You can remove them by periodically scraping the sides of the tank. Don’t forget to also scrub the rocks. Bleach the rocks if the algae insist to stick to the rock. Be careful about bleaching because it can be toxic for fish.

If you also notice algae on the sand or on the plastic plants, you can remove them also but it will take some energy. You will need to wash the gravel in a lot of water and then rinse it.

But try to reduce the cause and not the symptom. Algae grow in excess if they have too much light. Reduce the light level first and use more natural light rather than the artificial one.

On the market, in pet shops, there are also some algae treatments, like the use of algaecide, which will help you solve the problem. But don’t abuse of this treatment. It can harm the fish and even kill them! Don’t expect the problem to disappear over night if you use this treatment.

You will never believe that adding natural aquatic plants control the algae growth. It is quite effective. For example, luxuriant plants grow and they filter out the light. Without a lot of light, the algae are kept in control. Plants also absorb chemicals from the water like nitrates.
Breeders say a tank should have around 50 small plants per square root of space.

Now you know what to do in order to take care of your tank and have healthy and beautiful fish. Other articles will follow with more advice on how to deal with algae.

Tropical fish Tanks Guide to Lighting and Plants

Aquarium plants play multiple roles in the tank life: they decorate the aquarium and make it look beautiful, they are an attraction for the fish and some of them help regulate the oxygen level.

While completing the aquarium structure with plants, it is good to know a few facts.

One of them is to keep in mind that plants should decorate the aquarium but, at the same time, leave enough space for the fish to swim. For example, the feathery plants look much better when there are many of them in small clumps. This makes them seem like bushes. The tall, grassy type is better to be placed in rows.

Planting rooted plants into the tank sand can be done like this:
1. hold the tips of the bunch of roots between the thumb and second finger
2. put the rest into the sand
3. push the upper part of the roots with the first finger approximately 2cm into the sand
4. scrape some sand over the uncovered parts of the roots with the thumb and second finger

The same method is applied when planting rootless plants. The lower ends of the stems are squeezed together and treated like they were roots.

Another aspect is the water level in the tank. The water surface should be just up to the lower edge of the top angle iron of the tank. If the water level is bellow the top angle iron, the aquarium will look like a water container. Ideal is that when somebody looks at the aquarium from the front, that person should imagine that there is no water there and fish are swimming freely.

The lighting in the aquarium is also a vital element for the fish health and a key factor if you want to grow plants. The lack of light damages the plants and also causes the fish to lose their color: red can turn into pink and green to white.

You can choose natural light or artificial light or even a combination of both. If you want to expose the tank to just natural light, place it near the window that’s facing north. But if you want artificial light, you can choose between incandescent or fluorescent light. Whatever the type is, you must also be careful about the amount of light you have in your tank. Too much light can make the water green and too little will not help them grow. Most of the times, adjusting the light level is a mater of multiple trials and tests.

The lighting system should be made of wood and placed above the tank. Some of the most spectacular aquariums have the light placed behind.

Also, if there is no natural light during the day, leave the artificial light turned on. Fish breeders recommend that the aquarium is lightened for about eight hours a day. If after a few days you see that the water is turning green, reduce the amount of hours to 6 or 7.

Tropical Fish Tanks- Disposing of Plants and Fish

Sometimes, you can no longer take care of your aquatic plants or animals. What do you do with them? This is quite a challenge and the internet can find you a solution. Here are some tips&tricks.

Plants

Let’s suppose that you have an aquarium and a particular aquatic plant has grown in excess. What do you do with it? Here is a list of way in which you can deal with the problem and dispose of the plants in a safe way:

1. You can burn the, in a safe area. By burning the plants you also destroy the seeds and they will not multiply.
2. Freezing them or drying them is another solution. This process kills the actual plant but saves the seeds. After the freezing and drying, you can take the seeds, put them in a plastic bag with zipper and throw them away.
3. The process of composting can also be helpful. But just like freezing and drying, composting will allow the seeds to survive and be carried away by other birds or animals.

Animals

One morning you wake up to see that your fish have babies. You can not take care of this many fish. What do you do?

LFS: the organization will take your pet and sometimes find a new owner. It is much better than euthanatizing or flushing. Flushing is quite cruel because it gives the fish a sow and painful death by poisoning or suffocation.

Friends: before you consider other alternatives, take to your friends. Maybe one of them would enjoy the prospect of having an aquarium and would like some fish friends. Tell them about all the species’ particularities so that they know everything and know how to deal with it. Also, help the friend in the first few weeks after the pet adoption.

Whatever your method is, don’t leave your pet into the wild. First of all, it is cruel to do that. Second of all, the aquatic plants and animals could inflict diseases into the native population. Sometimes, the species released into the wild compete with the native ones for food.
Aquatic pet release into the wild is even punished in some states and the penalties are really severe.

And don’t forget that you can always contact your local Department of Natural Resources or Health Department for specific information.

Tropical Fish Tanks - What is an Aquarium Heater?

A heater is the apparatus which provides the actual heat as opposed to the thermostat, which is the automatic switch for controlling heat. The majority of heaters made today are fabricated of nichrome resistance wire, which is wound around a ceramic core. Some are of nichrome which is wound on an asbestos backing, and a few have the resistance element imbedded in the ceramic. The tube may or may not be filled with sand.

Heaters are divided into two groups: those which are attached directly to a thermostat, either in the same tube or an adjoining one and those called combination heating unit, thermostatic control, condenser and pilot light. For convenience these items may be housed in the same tube with an attached hanger, or they may be located in two different tubes with a clip joining them and a hanger.

At the present time there is only one combination heater and thermostat that can be completely submerged in water. Most of them are designed to hang vertically on the aquarium, partly in the water. I specify “in the water” because I have found that a good many people, unless told otherwise, hang such heaters on the outside of the tank.

The water level should be one to two inches below the lip of the tube (or tubes) to prevent water from entering I lie heater. Always read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.

The cover glass (or hood), if used, should be cut away above the heater and/or thermostat to prevent condensed water from dripping into it.

The combination unit may have a knob on the top to adjust the temperature regulator. This is called an “outside-control.” An “inside-control” unit has the mechanism attached to the rubber cork stopper. Removal of the stopper lifts the unit, allowing the adjusting screw to be reached. It is advisable to unplug the unit before is removed for adjustment.

A word of warning: never put a hot heater into the water; it will crack. Always disconnect a heater before removing it from the water.

The heaters which are made independent of a thermostat may be sealed for submersion or may be hung on the side of the tank. These and the other types may be sand-filled.

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