What Causes Fish Tank Heaters To Fail?
May 29, 2009 by admin
Filed under Fish Tank Supplies
As the bimetallic strip bends toward and away from contact, an electric arc is created that eventually will pit and corrode the points. To prevent this, a condenser should be attached across the circuit, above the thermostat. Should the condenser short out, the current would bypass the thermostat, which would then not be operating. The heater, with no control on it, would continue to heat.
Better thermostats today have a fuse in series with the condenser. Should the condenser short out, the fuse will blow. The thermostat and heater, however, continue to function without the condenser and fuse assembly until they can be replaced.
Another cause of trouble is water in the thermostat tube. In this situation the heater continues to function but without any shut off control.
Occasionally, although not frequently, the silver points that are used today melt and fuse together. This prevents normal opening of the thermostat and is usually a possibility when the power source is direct current (D.C.). Cleaning the contact points occasionally with very fine sand paper will help correct this trouble.
The most common causes of heaters failing to heat is usually current failure, or improper contacts in the wall plugs. Occasionally the thermostat plug becomes disconnected without anyone realizing it. All that is necessary to restore its function, of course, is to plug it back in.Even more infrequent is a burned out heating oil, or a broken connection within the circuit itself.
Heaters fail to heat only a fraction of the number of times they overheat. It is hoped that the number of times the latter occurs will be lessened considerably by the use of proper fuses.
A magnetic snap action thermostat is a thermostat that operates on the same principle as the ordinary thermostat, but with the following addition. There is a small magnet at the end of the bimetal strip and a corresponding plate on the mounting. As the bending bimetal strip comes close, the magnetic attraction asserts itself, closing the contacts sharply with a snap—hence the name. This rapid closing eliminates the problem of the arc and the necessity for the installation of a radio condenser.
Using Thermometers in Your Aquarium
May 22, 2009 by admin
Filed under Fish Tank Supplies
By encasing the heater and thermostat in separate tubes, one is enabled to place the heater in one corner and the thermostat in another. This is supposed to insure a more even distribution of heat, since the heat must travel through the entire tank to reach the thermostat. In theory it is all right, but in actual practice it has hardly proven necessary. Water circulation itself distributes the heat readily enough.
Any type of thermometer can be used in a fish tank that is partitioned into several sections. Judge the wattage required by the capacity of the tank. Place the thermostat and heater in the center section or in adjoining sections. The end sections may be a few degrees cooler than the center, but the difference will not be appreciable.
To make sure that your thermometer is giving the correct reading, place your thermometer alternately in warm and cold water to see if it rises and falls properly. Wash the thermometer carefully, and place the bulb edge under your tongue. An accurate thermometer will read close to 98.6° F., which is body temperature. A variance of 2° or 3° is not important, however, since aquarium temperatures are not that critical.
Check a new thermometer for breaks or spaces in the mercury or “spirit” column. These often occur because of jostling during transit. To eliminate such breaks, place the thermometer on a piece of ice until the indicator has retracted completely into the bulb. When the indicator fluid is allowed to warm up, the column should be continuous.
Essential Aquarium Accessories
May 15, 2009 by admin
Filed under Fish Tank Supplies
Below are some of the aquarium accessories that are necessary for the proper maintenance of an aquarium.
A constant level siphon is designed to maintain the water level of an aquarium from going higher than a specified height. It does not empty itself when the flow ceases, but remains ready to resume its function automatically when the water level rises. It is especially useful to prevent overflow in aquaria where there is constant inflow of water.
A dip tube is a plastic or glass tube, usually 12 to 18 inches long, comprises the principal part of a dip tube. Glass tubes are extremely fragile, however. There is usually a bulbous section near the bottom, narrowing down again at the mouth. Some models have a flared mouth to eliminate picking up gravel. To operate this tool, one finger is held over the top, tightly closing it. The mouth of the tube is placed in the aquarium directly over the dirt or debris to be removed. When the finger is removed, the water rushes in, carrying the dirt with it. The dip tube is emptied by inverting it into a container. There are also “take-apart” dip tubes which can be dismantled after use for greater ease in cleaning. A dip tube is more convenient than a siphon for removing a small amount of debris and also for working in smaller tanks.
A power dip tube is a modification of an inside filter operating from the air pump. The air-lift tube is lengthened enough to reach the bottom of the aquarium. Usually a handle is provided for convenience. For best results all the air that the pump provides should be used, it drains through the filtering material back into the tank. Usually only glass wool is used as a filter medium.
The power dip tube is faster than an ordinary dip tube in use, but not as fast as a siphon. It is particularly useful to people who do not have a source of water suitable for fishes readily available and therefore wish to reuse what they have. New aquarium vacuum cleaners serve the same purpose, but have built-in motors and cloth and it is also used like a squeegee to polish the glass. The razor blade is used for the removal of tougher algal growth. This latter type of scraper is not rust-proof and should be taken apart and dried carefully after use. The sponge aquarium glass cleaners are excellent sack filters.
An aquarium scraper is a long-handled razor blade holder. It is used to scrape the inside of the aquarium glass. Some scrapers have a rubber blade in addition to the razor blade. The rubber is used for removing soft settlings.
Planting tongs are long-handled forceps to make possible the removal or placement of items in the aquarium without putting your hands in the water. They are also convenient for use in closer quarters. In planting, the crown of the plant is placed in the tip of the tongs with the plant parallel with the tongs. It is then slid into place. Never poke a plant straight down. Start an inch or two away from the desired location and slide it forward and down. If it is placed too deeply, tug at it very gently and bring it to the desired height. Two sticks with their ends flattened and notched are often used for planting. One is used to hold the plant down, while the other pushes gravel over the roots.
Planting scissors are long-handled scissors which are used to trim aquatic vegetation. Tying sticks to the handles of an old pair of scissors works admirably.
Feed rings are rings, usually glass or plastic, which float. They are used because dry food placed on the water has a tendency to spread out over the surface and drop in all areas of the aquarium. A feed ring prevents this spreading. Food which drops below it can be located and removed more easily with a dip tube. Don’t get too small a feeding ring. Make sure that there is room for all the fishes under it. In some cases one fish will become the other fishes away from the ring. In that case, it is advisable to use two or even three rings. If there is a bully fish driving all the other fishes away from the ring, it is advisable to use two or even three rings.
A worm feeder is made of glass or plastic and is shaped like a cup. It has a number of small perforations in the bottom. It floats at the surface. Tubifex or white worms, when placed in it, wriggle slowly through the holes, to be consumed by the waiting fishes below. This eliminates the possibility of their crawling into the gravel, as might happen if the worms were just dropped into the water. It also enables you to determine just how many worms the fishes eat. As with the feeding ring, so with the worm ring: if you are feeding a large number of fishes, or if one fish dominates the feeding area, use several rings.
There are different types of worm feeders available. A worm feeder will keep live tubifex worms in one place. This will allow all of your fishes an opportunity to feed on the worms and prevent the worms from entrenching themselves in the gravel.
Suction cups are small rubber suction cups with a rubber band or a thin stainless steel wire attached. They have many uses in keeping the aquarium neat. They can be used to keep air-line tubing in place, to keep feed rings from floating away, to attach thermometers in an easy-to-read position, and so on.
An aquarium pH testing kit is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of the aquarium. This value is expressed in numbers: 7.0 is neutral; a value above 7.0 (7.4, 8.0, etc.) is alkaline; below 7.0 is acid (6.9, 5.8, etc.).
The majority of our aquarium fishes thrive at a pH near neutral. Most fishes will withstand a change from water of one pH to water of another pH provided the change is gradual.
There are two types of inexpensive kits available to aquarists for measuring pH. One involves the use of u liquid indicator dye, bromthymol blue. A drop or two of the indicator is placed into measured amount of aquarium water. The color of the sample is then compared with a color chart provided for that purpose. Also useful is the roll of impregnated paper which is specially designed for accurate pH readings. It contains a roll of paper in a plastic dispenser. A small strip of this paper is torn off, dipped into the water, and held up a few seconds to dry. The drop of color which forms on the end is then compared with the color chart which is provided on the case of the pH tester.
The aquarium pH can be altered by the addition of chemicals: sodium bicarbonate to make it more alkaline, and sodium biphosphate to make it acid.
A properly set up and cared-for tank will remain at or near neutral by itself. A constant variation or tendency to become too acid or alkaline indicates an unbalanced tank and should be investigated.
Tips on Choosing an Aquarium Heater
May 14, 2009 by admin
Filed under Fish Tank Supplies
A submergible heater is usually placed flat along the bottom of the tank. The theory is that as the warm water rises it will cause a mild circulation within the tank, insuring a more even distribution of heat. Whether this particularly benefits the fish in most home aquaria is doubtful. However, with the heat source at the surface of a tall tank, and with no aeration or filtration, you will note a considerable disparity in temperature between the upper and lower strata of water. Whether the difference, except in an extreme case, is enough to discomfort the fishes is problematical. In nature, fishes swim with no apparent signs of discomfort between the sun-warmed surface and the cooler depths. They appear quite capable of adjusting to this type of change with no noticeable signs of stress.
By encasing the heater and thermostat in separate tubes, one is enabled to place the heater in one corner and the thermostat in another. This is supposed to insure a more even distribution of heat, since the heat must travel through the entire tank to reach the thermostat. In theory it is all right, but in actual practice it has hardly proven necessary. Water circulation itself distributes the heat readily enough.
For the advanced hobbyist who can afford it, the most practical method for heating all your fish tanks is a tank room. The temperature in the room can then be thermostatically controlled and heated by the use of a commercial space heater, either gas or electric. A small fan can be used to assure an even distribution of heat within the room.
If this method is impractical, you have your choice of either of two methods, or a combination of both. The simplest way is to get a combination heater and thermostat for each tank. There are a number of low-cost combination units on the market which will give very satisfactory service.
An alternative method is to get a high-capacity individual thermostat. This is placed in the smallest tank of the series to be controlled with the single setup. Heaters with wattages proportionate to the size of the tanks they are put into are connected in series with the thermostat. For the average home, allow 5 watts to the gallon. For a 5-gallon tank, use 25 watts; a 10-gallon tank, 50 watts, and so on.
For example: a hobbyist with four tanks, a 5-gallon, a 10-gallon, and two 20-gallon tanks would use the following: a 25-watt heater in the 5-gallon tank, a 50-wa heater in the 10-gallon, and a 100-watt in each of the 20’s The thermostat to which all the heaters are coupled placed in the smallest tank. Why? Because the smaller the amount of water in a tank, the more subject it is to fluctuation. Should the thermostat be placed in the largest tank, the smallest one might show a drop of as much as 5 to 6 degrees before the temperature of the large one would drop sufficiently to activate the thermostat.
How Does an Outside Filter Operate in a Fish Tank?
May 9, 2009 by admin
Filed under Fish Tank Supplies
An outside filter is a watertight box suspended outside and alongside of the aquarium. Usually it is made of plastic or glass. The top of the filter is level with the rim of the tank. The filter itself is divided vertically into two unequal compartments by a partition, the lower one-quarter of which is perforated or slotted. The filtering material is placed in the larger compartment. A small tube siphons water from the tank onto the filter material. It sinks through the filter material and runs through the perforations in the partition into the next compartment. The passage of the water through the filter material has cleansed it. The clean water is returned by means of an air-lift tube, which is operated by the pump.
As the intake stem bringing water into the filter is a siphon, it maintains the water in the filter at the same level as the water in the tank. Therefore, the water cannot over-flow. The action is continuous. If the siphoning action is stopped, the return stem - which returns the clear water to the tank - would empty the filter. As the amount of water the filter is usually small compared to the volume of the tank, no harm is done, that is, the tank will not overflow.
For an outside filter to operate efficiently, the water level of the aquarium should be quite high, about one inch from the top. The siphon tube is placed upside down in the aquarium to empty it of air. Still held under water, it is righted, and a finger placed over the shorter open end. Holding this tightly closed, the tube is lifted far enough out of the water so that the short end of the stem can be put into the larger filter compartment, and the longer end remaining submerged in the tank. Only now should your finger be removed from the end. The flow should start and continue until the water level in the filter and the tank is the same.
There are several self-starting stems available today. To start them, hold your finger over the opening in the short end and slowly lower the stem into position. Syringe-type starter balls are also available. This type and the automatic or self-starting stems do offer a good deal of convenience.
How does a cylinder pump operate in a Fish Tank?
May 8, 2009 by admin
Filed under Fish Tank Supplies
A motor is connected by a leather belt to a flywheel. As the flywheel turns, it actuates a piston which forces air out through a cylinder. Some larger models have two cylinders with the flywheel located between them. As one piston enters its cylinder the other is withdrawn, thus providing a continuous flow of air. The amount of air and the air pressure delivered by a cylinder pump are determined by the size of the cylinder, the speed of the motor and the size of the flywheel. The standard motor is from 1/150th to 1/75th horsepower. The volume of air given off by a cylinder pump can, in some models, be regulated by adjusting the angle at which the piston enters the cylinder.
First of all - power. Cylinder pumps deliver considerably more air and give more pressure than the diaphragm type. They are less subject to breakdowns, and can usually be repaired by the owner with replacement parts, which are available at the pet shop. This eliminates the delay and inconvenience required for sending the pump back to the manufacturer for repair.
When purchasing a cylinder pump, always ask for a manufacturer’s instruction sheet, which details the proper oiling and adjustment procedures for oil holes while turning the motor by hand. Continue this until the cleaning fluid runs through clean. Allow several Fours for the carbon tetrachloride to dry completely both inside and out. Make sure that the motor is re-oiled before being put back into use. The cleaning fluid, of course, will have removed all the oil as well as the dirt.
Essential Tools to Start a Tropical Fish Tank
May 7, 2009 by admin
Filed under Fish Tank Supplies
There is a wide variety of tools which help you maintain health in your aquarium. Some of these tools are: filters, ornaments, gravel, air pumps, plants, nets, water treatments, siphons, scrapers, and many more.
The gravel for Tropical Fish Tanks
Buy gravel from pet stores. The workers there will help you choose the best one and even give you advice. They will recommend you the pre-washed gravel. You will only need to rinse it a little before putting it into the aquarium. It is clean and sterile. If you get non-washed gravel, you have to boil, cleanse, and prepare it before putting it into the tank. The low quality gravel affects the pH water levels in your tank so buy the best one.
Filters for tropical fish tanks
The filters keep away all the harmful chemicals. There are many types of filters to choose from: chemical, biological, or mechanical. Every type removes fish waste like debris and ammonia. The filters have under-gravel, internal, and external filters. The best ones, and the most costly ones, are the external filters. Breeders recommend combining under-gravel filters with external or internal filters.
Plants for tropical fish tanks
Plants are amazing because they play a double role. They regulate the CO2 and oxygen levels in the tank and also play an aesthetic role. Choose plants that don’t grow higher than the water tank. Also ask the pet shop sales persons to recommend you plants depending on the fish species you have. There are some fish species that like some particular plant types. Generally, marine water plants and fish plants are the best choice.
Ornaments for tropical fish tanks
On the market you will find a wide variety of aquarium ornaments of different shapes and colors. Ask a breeder before buying an ornament. Not all of them are good for the fish. For example, the plastic ornaments sometimes can cause damage to the fish.
After you buy some ornaments, before introducing them into the tank, it is good to boil them and clean the properly. Get advice on how to do that and help from pet shop sales people.
Air pumps for tropical fish tanks
Among the vital components of your aquarium, the air pump plays a key role. It helps the air to circulate and that increases the rates of oxygen.
Do a little research on the Internet before buying one and then go to talk to some professionals. Also, you will find in the shops many types of air pumps. Read all that’s written on the labels and be careful about details. Ask for advice if you don’t understand something and make sure the pump you buy is for the size of your aquarium.
Test kits for tropical fish tanks
Besides all the tools specified by now, you also must have some test kits. With these scientifically aquarium gadgets you will monitor the quality of water. In this way, you will be sure that your tank water doesn’t have unwanted substances like ammonia, nitrates, or nitrites, and many others. Also test the pH levels as well. Always remember that fish produce ammonia through waste. The ammonia turns into non-toxic nitrites, which fish like to eat.
Water treatments for tropical fish tanks
The purity of the water is very important in maintaining fish health. The tap water is full of chlorine and chloramines, dangerous for the fish. These two substances can really do damage to your fish skin and digestion system. You need to treat the water before you put the fish in the tank. Chlorine treatments are ideal and you can find water treatments in any pet shop.
And if you are a beginner and just got your first aquarium, buy a starter kit. It will have everything you need to take care of your fish and keep them happy. You can find more information about this if you go online and search.
Six Reasons To Consistantly Change The Water In Your Aquarium
Ph Levels
pH means hydrogen potenz. This is the actual concentration of hydrogen ions in the aquarium tank. The amount of hydrogen ion is related to the acidity of the water in the tank. The pH value is also connected to the fish activity in the tank. The fish produce debris which changes the pH balance. This is why you need to constantly monitor the values and also to change the water in the tank quite often.
Nitrates levels
Experienced fish owners suggest that periodical water changes in the tank must be done to keep a low nitrate level. The fish naturally produce ammonia through the excretion process and the level of nitrates changes every day.
It is good if a saltwater aquarium has a nitrate concentration of maximum 20 parts per million. Freshwater aquariums must have at the most 50 parts per million in nitrate levels.
But not just changing the water helps to keep an optimal level of nitrates. There are also some protein skimmers available that regulate the nitrate levels. Still, don’t forget that no amount of proteins can remove the debris from the tank. You need to change the water in order to eliminate organic fish waste.
Kh Control
Kh refers to hydrolysis levels, which means the ability of water to buffer. What does that mean? The water has an optimum level of basis and acids in it. Kh control is about maintaining an optimum level between these two components and the tank water. The biological activity in the tank permanently changes the levels and water needs to be changes quite often.
Detoxifying the aquarium
It may not seem that way to you but life in the aquarium is quite an active one. Plants, fish, snails, they all eliminate organic debris. The byproducts of metabolic activities of the aquarium residents and the excretion products bring toxic products in the tank. Even the air introduced in the aquarium or on the water surface can bring new toxic materials or microorganisms. And let’s not forget that you can drop some things into the aquarium also. So change the water as often as you can.
Aquarium accessories clean-up
A good wash must be given to the rocks also, different balls, or other accessories because waste sometimes sits on them.
Algae growth
Algae are known to grow fast in all types of tanks and water. The aquarium environments are very good for the algae because the water is stagnant and a bit hot. But algae pollute the water a lot and can cause fish health problems. Besides that, just like the fish, the algae suck the nutrients out of the water and if they grow too much they compete with the fish for food. Changing the water regularly helps prevent excessive algae growth.
So, in conclusion, no matter how many water treatments and filters you have, a change of tank water from time to time is vital for your fish tank health.
What is a pump, a filter, an aerator for a tropical Fish Tank?
April 23, 2009 by admin
Filed under Fish Tank Supplies
A pump is a mechanical apparatus which forces water or air through tubing or other equipment. It provides the flow that makes the filter and aerator operate.
Filters (except under gravel filters) are units containing (or being made of) a porous filter material such as activated charcoal or filter floss. There are a number of different filter types available, but the principle is basically the same in all except under gravel filters. Water from the aquarium is passed through the filter material and thereby cleaned.
An aerator is a unit that exposes water to, or mixes it with, air. As far as home aquaria are concerned, an aerator diffuser is usually a porous stone which is placed in the aquarium with connections so that a pump forces air through it. It serves the purpose of breaking the stream of air into small bubbles, thus increasing its effectiveness.
A water pump draws water from an aquarium through one tube and discharges it through another, the water circulating through the pump. Water pumps are usually employed only in larger indoor installations or in outdoor pools. They may be used to empty aquaria or to transfer water from one aquarium to another. They are also used when it is desirable to have the filter located some distance away from the water to be filtered. Another use, seldom encountered indoors, is to spray water for a fountain, or to raise water for a waterfall.
The filter material is the same as that in any other filter, charcoal, and/or sand, and/or glass wool. The filter is designed to be closed tightly when in use, provision being made to remove the filter material for replacement o cleaning. Circulation takes place through two nozzles. The water is sucked through a tube from the tank directly into the filter material. A perforated compartment receives the water after it has filtered through the matrix. A nozzle leading from this compartment directs the water through the pump and back into the aquarium.
This type of water pump usually provides faster and more efficient filtration than do the more conventional types of air-operated filtering systems. However, it does not agitate the water so efficiently as a good air stone; it is also quite cumbersome and usually more expensive to purchase than the ordinary setup.
Aquarium Heaters for your Tropical Fish Tank
April 21, 2009 by admin
Filed under Fish Tank Supplies
Heaters are no more expensive than any other small electrical appliance. Remember, heaters are using up electricity only when they are heating. Thermostats do not use up any current; they only conduct it or cut it off.
The warmer you keep your tanks in relation to the room temperature; the more electricity will be required. If you are concerned about the cost of electricity, keep your tanks in the warmest part of the warmest room - but not near a radiator - and maintain your tanks at the lowest safe temperature of 72° to 73° F.
Incidentally, it costs no more to operate a large heater when a small heater in the same size tank. The larger heater will simply heat up that much faster and shut off that much sooner. Many people are under the misconception that a heater gives off only the temperature at which the thermostat is set while heating. This is not so. A heater, once it starts heating, gets as hot as the resistance wire will allow, and stays at that high temperature until the thermostat shuts it off. Then it loses all its heat to the water. A heater does not feel hot to the touch while it is heating, because it is rapidly exchanging its heat with the water. The same heater in air becomes too hot to touch within seconds.
A test light can be wired to a heater, provided you know how to make the hook-up. If the test light goes on when the thermostat and heater are plugged in, turn the temperature control down until the light just flickers off. If the light fails to go on, turn the temperature control higher. The point at which the light flickers on or off is where thermostat is set for room temperature. A thermometer in the room will tell you what the room temperature is. From there it is a simple matter to turn the thermostat up or down.
If the light goes on and fails to shut off when the thermostat contact is broken, it is usually evidence of the failure of a condenser, which should be removed. The heater should then function normally. A new condenser should be put on as soon as possible, rather than operating without it. The absence of a condenser puts a strain on the contact points.
If the test light fails to go on, check the male plug and the contact points first; then look for a break in the element, or a black spot, which indicates a burned area.
Occasionally the points become so coated with carbon that they fail to make proper contact, or constant arcing may build up a high spot, preventing the contact from breaking properly. Fine sandpaper used carefully will remove those spots and return the unit to proper operating.
