Bunch plants and Floating Plants for Aquariums

These plants take their name from the fact that they are frequently sold in bunches of individual stalks bound together with a rubber band or a strip of lead. In these plants the roots serve primarily as anchors. Growth occurs at the tip. If the tip is broken off, a new one will form; when the stem is injured, a branch often develops. In fact, if the stalk of a bunch plant is thrust into the gravel upside down, a new tip will form at the upper end, and the lower end will develop anchoring roots. The same holds true when a piece of the center section is cut out and planted.

Many bunch plants will grow even while floating freely in water. They show a tendency to root, however, sending down long, thin roots. When these roots reach the gravel, as frequently happens in a shallow aquarium, they anchor firmly and, not infrequently, draw the plant down to the gravel.

The main problem with newly purchased bunch plants is that of anchoring them. They seldom have enough root structure to hold them in place. For this reason it is advisable to plant them in a bunch, retaining the little lead band around them as a weight. Lead is relatively inactive, and a small amount does no harm in the aquarium.

Many bunch plants have a tendency to grow long and shed leaves from the base. The best way to keep this tendency under control is by uprooting the plant, cutting off the lower portion, and reroofing the upper. If there is a bushy, branching growth, snip off the tip occasionally.

Floating plants are the plants most frequently used as hiding places for baby fishes. Some of them occasionally put out anchors, called “holdfasts,” and these fasten on rocks or submerged bark. Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum), which is frequently sold as a bunch plant, is really a floating plant. It never develops roots. In others, such as Duckweed (Lemna minor), Salvinia (Salvinia natans), or Water Hyacinth (Eichornia crassipes), roots are present, but they do not root into anything. They merely float freely below the plant. Not all floating plants float at the surface. Some tropical aquarium fishes such as Chain of Stars and Stonewort (Nitella gracilis), float at the bottom. Reproduction is usually asexual, that is, without flowers.

Tropical Aquarium - What is the Best Type of Filter for a Beginner?

From the point of view of satisfactory service over a long period of time, an outside filter is the most satisfactory. Hanging in the rear and outside of the aquarium, outside filters are easily concealed yet readily serviceable.

By their very nature, filters become the repository of all the waste and filth in the tank. They should be cleaned every two weeks, on the average, to remove this waste matter. An outside filter is the easiest to disconnect and remove to be cleaned. Also, it can be examined easily to determine the amount of accumulated dirt. If the tank is located where it does not permit the hanging of a filter on the outside, however, it is necessary to employ an inside

The air lift filter is a closed plastic box containing the filtering material. The air-lift tube is straight, instead of curved, and is set in the middle of the filter in the filtering material. This type of filter has perforated sides and rests on the bottom of the aquarium, usually at the rear. The air-lift draws the water from the center. New water comes in through the perforations and passes through the filter material as it makes its way toward the center.

A bottom filter is frequently used by dealers for several reasons. It requires a lesser amount of air than do outside ones. Many dealers have their tanks banked closely together, and do not have space between them for outside filters. Also, bottom filters double as aerators. The stream of air agitates the water as it rises, serving to aerate and circulate the fluid.

Against this, however, is the reluctance on the part of a fancier to disturb a tank once it is set up. There is a tendency to let a bottom filter remain without cleaning for months on end, until it becomes a focal point for pollution. Far from serving as a cleansing agent, it becomes a menace. The same holds true of the other types of filters, but to a far lesser degree, because there is much less tendency to neglect them.

Because under-gravel filters have disadvantages, I usually recommend that they be used in conjunction with a good outside filter. Thus several areas will be served, and there will be less likelihood of difficulty if the under-gravel filter clogs up.

What is the Best Location for a Tropical Fish Aquarium Pump?

It is usually advisable to have the pump at a higher level than the tank. This will prevent any possibility of a siphoning action draining the water from the tank back into the pump. Pump platforms are available for pump placement. These are small plastic or metal shelves designed to hold the pump while hanging on the back of a tank.

If it is desirable to place the pump on the floor, or on any level below the level of the tank, there are several precautions to be observed: Backflow seldom starts while the pump is in operation; it is when the pump is not operating that the greatest danger occurs. Backflow may be started by several actions.

(1) The tendency of water to rise in a narrow tube is known as capillary action. If the water in the tank is very close to the top, it is possible for water to rise in the air tube by capillary action to a point where it starts a downward flow and a siphoning action occurs.

(2) The cooling down of a warm pump can cause the air inside to contract and draw the water down.

(3) Over- oiling the pump can cause excess oil to enter the lines. Air pressure will keep the oil clinging to the inside walls of the vertical tubing, but with the air pressure removed; the oil starts to run back. As it collects in droplets, a vacuum is created behind it strong enough to start a siphoning action.

In order to prevent this, keep a small surgical type “C” clamp handy. When, for any reason, the pump is shut off, clamp shut the line leading to the pump. Also shut all air valves tightly. Whenever oil or moisture is seen in a tube, discard that piece of tubing. It is also a good idea to clean the pump when excess oil appears in the line.

Breeding Traps for Live Bearing Fish

Breeding traps are plastic containers. There are three types: the rod trap, the “V” bottom, and the combination nursery and breeding trap. They are all designed to hang inside an aquarium and receive heat from it. They are also perforated to allow water circulation. Very little actual circulation takes place, however, unless it is helped along by dipping breeding trap. The excess will, of course, run out through the perforations. Usually a breeding trap is set in the rear of the aquarium where its inhabitant will not be disturbed.

The rod trap is a square box about 8 inches long by 4 inches wide by 4 inches high. The bottom consists of glass or plastic rods set a little apart from each other. The pregnant female is confined in this type trap with a few sprays of plants for hiding herself. This is important, because in a bare trap there is more of a tendency for her to thrash around. When the young are born, they drop through the bottom and are protected from the possible cannibalism of their mother. Of course there should be no fishes in the aquarium into which the babies drop. The rod trap that is longer (up to 18 inches), is also used for breeding certain egg-laying fishes, such as Zebras (Brachydanio rerio) and White Clouds (Tanichthys albonubes), which lay non-adhesive eggs.

The “V” bottom trap is shaped so that the bottom comes to a long V. The sides are perforated. Babies, when born, drop out through the slit. This type is also provided with a plastic rod or strip which can be used to close the bottom and prevent the babies escaping. This is used when there are fishes in the larger aquarium which might at the babies. Of course they are still in danger of being eaten by the mother, but putting some hiding plants in the trap will help save at least some of them.

Do not overdo the hiding plants, however; leave room for the mother.

The combination breeding and nursery trap is a square box with a “V” insert in it. When born the babies drop through the opening in the bottom of the breeding trap and are confined in the lower portion of the trap. After delivery, the mother and the insert are removed, giving the young ones a nursery to swim around in. As might be expected, this type is somewhat more expensive.

Since all of these breeding traps are comparatively small, it is inadvisable to keep large females in them. They will suffer from the confinement. And of course never keep two females in the one trap. Cover breeding traps, because even baby fishes can jump.

A trap is not so satisfactory a method of raising babies as a separate nursery tank is. It is, however, of great value to the person who cannot keep more than one tank and still wants the thrill of breeding his own fishes. A breeding trap may also be used in conjunction with a baby tank. Obviously you cannot keep an adult gravid female with the babies while she is awaiting delivery. A breeding trap is placed in the baby tank and her babies join the others as they are born.

Whether in a trap or a tank, babies must be fed. To accomplish this, use special baby foods. Feed small amounts, but feed frequently. Do not give the little stomachs a chance to get empty. Do not make the meals too big, as the excess will spoil before the babies have had time to eat it.