Treating The Water In Your Aquarium

The water in the tank is a vital element for the fish. Its quality has to be very good and appropriate for the type of fish you have.There are some general aspects common to every fish species. For example, all fish like a pH measurement of acid and/or base water. Usually, the best pH level is between 6.5 and 7.5. Lower concentrations or higher damage the fish’s health.

What about the water type?
You need water treatments to improve the tap water you put in your tank.
Depending on the species, fish like water types like: soft water, hardness, saltwater, alkalinity and so on. The alkalinity of the water is established by a series of test results. Alkalinity is good for the fish, because it regulates the pH balance. The hard water has a lot of minerals, which is often unregulated. Soft water on the other hand, can’t produce dissolved minerals and if the water is made soft by different machines, is doesn’t have a big amount of minerals.

Water treatments

All water treatments have NH3, NO2, and NO3. NH3 is the symbol for ammonia, NO2 is the symbol for nitrites and NO3 is for nitrates. Don’t forget that fish produce ammonia naturally with their waste. The ammonia then becomes nitrites.

If you don’t have experience in owning fish, you should use a kit to test the tank water before introducing fish into the aquarium. The kits have different tools that will indicate the level of nitrites, chlorine, ammonia, nitrates, or any other chemicals in the water.

There a common myth which says that salt must be added to the water in the tank. That is not true. Salt can damage the fish skin. Only some tropical fish species like salt in the water because it relieves stress.

Many people use tap water to fill the tank. This water has big amounts of chloramines and chlorine. Fish, unlike us, can’t survive if they ingest chlorine or chloramines. Besides these two substances, the tap water also has hypochlorite, used to disinfect it.

Before you fill the tank with water, let it stand a bit to remove the chemicals or let the tap run for five minutes.

Ideal is to purify the water with treatments that contain solutions that are decholorinator-based. The decholorinator cleans of chloramines but the bad thing is that it releases ammonia.

Verify the tap water before you put it into the tank. Do this before buying any water treatment.

You can find out what your water contains by calling the local water company. Explain to them what your problem is so that they understand why you inquire upon the water contents.

Normally, tap water has copper, chloramines, chlorine, metal, phosphates, and Trichloroethylene.

If you discover that your tap water has chlorinate, use a water treatment, like thiosulphate dechlorinators that are sodium based.

But if there are other substances in the water, talk to someone from your local pet store and ask for advice. They will tell you what kind of water treatment to use.

Besides purchasing an aquarium and fish, you will also need to clean the tank and use buckets, nets a hose and other accessories that can be found in the pet store. And don’t forget to stay up to date on the latest aquarium water treatments.

Six Reasons To Consistantly Change The Water In Your Aquarium

Ph Levels
pH means hydrogen potenz. This is the actual concentration of hydrogen ions in the aquarium tank. The amount of hydrogen ion is related to the acidity of the water in the tank. The pH value is also connected to the fish activity in the tank. The fish produce debris which changes the pH balance. This is why you need to constantly monitor the values and also to change the water in the tank quite often.

Nitrates levels

Experienced fish owners suggest that periodical water changes in the tank must be done to keep a low nitrate level. The fish naturally produce ammonia through the excretion process and the level of nitrates changes every day.
It is good if a saltwater aquarium has a nitrate concentration of maximum 20 parts per million. Freshwater aquariums must have at the most 50 parts per million in nitrate levels.

But not just changing the water helps to keep an optimal level of nitrates. There are also some protein skimmers available that regulate the nitrate levels. Still, don’t forget that no amount of proteins can remove the debris from the tank. You need to change the water in order to eliminate organic fish waste.

Kh Control

Kh refers to hydrolysis levels, which means the ability of water to buffer. What does that mean? The water has an optimum level of basis and acids in it. Kh control is about maintaining an optimum level between these two components and the tank water. The biological activity in the tank permanently changes the levels and water needs to be changes quite often.

Detoxifying the aquarium

It may not seem that way to you but life in the aquarium is quite an active one. Plants, fish, snails, they all eliminate organic debris. The byproducts of metabolic activities of the aquarium residents and the excretion products bring toxic products in the tank. Even the air introduced in the aquarium or on the water surface can bring new toxic materials or microorganisms. And let’s not forget that you can drop some things into the aquarium also. So change the water as often as you can.

Aquarium accessories clean-up

A good wash must be given to the rocks also, different balls, or other accessories because waste sometimes sits on them.

Algae growth

Algae are known to grow fast in all types of tanks and water. The aquarium environments are very good for the algae because the water is stagnant and a bit hot. But algae pollute the water a lot and can cause fish health problems. Besides that, just like the fish, the algae suck the nutrients out of the water and if they grow too much they compete with the fish for food. Changing the water regularly helps prevent excessive algae growth.

So, in conclusion, no matter how many water treatments and filters you have, a change of tank water from time to time is vital for your fish tank health.

Aquarium Fish Health: The White Spot Disease And Its Treatment

One of the most frustrating moments in the life of a fish breeder or fish owner is when one or more fish dies. And this is one of the most common problems aquarists face. But sometimes, no matter what you do, death is inevitable especially in a fish tank. Many diseases are caused by internal or external parasites that live in the tank.

This is why you should observe as often as possible your fish and detect the problem in early stages. Many diseases, if discovered quickly, can be treated.

White Spot disease is one of the most common infections that appear on fish and is caused by the parasite - Ichthyophthirius Multifillis which swims and attaches itself to the fish.

Here are some behavioral symptoms in a fish that is infected with White Spot disease. If you notice some of them, start a treatment.

- The fish looses its appetite and has no response to food

- It stays constantly on the water surface or on the ground
- If it stays on the water surface it opens the mouth frequently and gasps for air

- The fish has a tendency to get close to the rocks and rubbing the body to against them

- Lethargy and a general state of weakness

- Hovering in a corner

- While swimming, the fish keeps the clamps up.

But one of the most obvious signs of infection is the pin head-size white spots that appear on the fins and sometimes on the whole body. This is a clear sign of infection with White Spot Disease.

This ailment can be treated with a solution of Methylene Blue. This solution can be bought from a chemist or from any fish shop. The treatment is like this: a 1% stock solution is poured into 0.8 to 1.0ml per gallon of tank water. Ad all the amount at once and repeat the process in a day or two. Before you start the treatment it is good to remove the dirt from the bottom of the tank and use aeration with bubbles near the water surface. A dirty tank bottom could inactivate the solution by absorbing it.

It is very important not to interrupt the treatment till all the white spots are gone. After the spots disappear, change all the tank water because a long exposure to the Methylene Blue chemical can affect the fish’s fertility. If used in a weak dosage, the Methylene Blue has no side effects to young fish and also to aquarium plants.

If your filtration system is charcoal based, you should consider removing it, so that the Methylene Blue isn’t absorbed by the charcoal.

Introducing Fish into the Tropical Aquarium

Many people receive fishes shipped from out-of-town sources. Often prompt and proper action must be taken upon their arrival to insure their continued life.

Examine the carton carefully before opening it. If it is wet or damaged, mark the fact on the receipt before signing it. Make the carrier wait and watch while you open the shipment. Check the water temperature immediately. Do not remove any fishes which appear to be dead, unless they are obviously decayed or physically damaged. Many tropical fish can be revived.

If the water is below 70° F., it is important to warm it to a higher temperature. Do not remove the fishes and put them into other warmer water. Instead, add warm water to the original water. Stir as you add the warm water to prevent hot water from touching the fishes. Warming the water slowly is dangerous. The fishes may die before the water gets warm enough to help them.

Once a desired temperature has been reached, change part of the water for fresh water. If the original water was foul, continue making partial changes at intervals until the water is clear. The water which is dipped out is thrown away. This process over a period of hours will give the fishes a chance to adjust to the different composition of your water.

Fishes bought from local source are usually brought home in a small container. These containers should be allowed to float unopened in the aquarium for fifteen minutes. This allows the water in the container to equal the temperature of the tank water. Remove the cover carefully. The fishes are likely to jump as soon as they see the light. Partially submerge the container slowly so that some water from the tank gradually runs into it. Pour out part of the water and repeat. Do this several times before completely submerging the container and letting the fishes swim out.

When transferring fishes from one tank to another, the same procedure is followed. Dip some of the fishes’ own water out in a container and place the fishes in that for transferring. It is unnecessary to float the container first,

Many aquarists maintain newly acquired fishes in separate tanks for ten days or two weeks. This helps to reveal any latent disease before it might be transmitted to the other fishes. During this time strict isolation is practiced. Utensils (net, dip tube, etc.) are disinfected, water drips are avoided, and even hands are scrubbed and rinsed thoroughly before going from one tank to the other.

A fairly good isolation ward for two or three small fishes is a squat one-gallon jar floating in the aquarium. By experimenting with the amount of water in the jar you can determine the proper amount to keep it upright and buoyant. This type of jar can be used for breeding also. A breeding trap, with its perforations which permit the circulation of water, is of course valueless for isolation.

Where should the fish tank be placed?

First of all, we must consider what the tank is to stand on. Water is quite heavy-8.3 pounds per U.S. gallon. Thus a 15-gallon tank weighs about 125 pounds. This is certainly no weight for a delicate end table to support. The base for a tank must be a sturdy one - flat and level. Any projections, tilt, or unsteadiness may cause leakage. The location should be a fairly permanent one. Tanks cannot be moved readily. Also, the height must be considered. It should be high enough to be seen standing up and low enough to be viewed comfortably while sitting down. An ideal height for a stand is 30″ to 36″.

Stands expressly designed for supporting aquaria are available. Most of these are equipped with a shelf which can be used for an auxiliary tank or for equipment. The artistically inclined often put plants on the shelf and train ivy up the legs to afford an exotic touch. These stands have a flat top, open in the center, with just a rim around the edge to support the tank. The center is left open so that water, which may accidentally drip, will not run under and accumulate below the tank. The outside rim which supports the tank only along the four edges is perfectly satisfactory.

When the stand rests on a rug or linoleum, furniture coasters should be used to prevent damage. Some buyers are surprised to see that there is no lip around a stand to prevent sliding. Because of a tank’s construction, all of the weight and pressure are directed straight down, and it would require a very heavy shove to dislodge a tank. In fact, a shove heavy enough to move a full tank is more likely to break the tank before moving it. The moral of the story is: don’t shove a full tank.

Think twice before putting a tank on an expensive piece of highly polished furniture. Working around an aquarium, water is often spilled, and tank water is injurious to polished surfaces unless it is wiped up immediately. Surfaces which heat up, such as television cabinets, may cause the cement to soften. Several layers of asbestos under the tank will prevent this. A table-top stand has recently become available. This is approximately 4″ high and is designed for holding tanks on furniture.

Where should the Fish tank be placed?

First of all, we must consider what the fish tank is to stand on. Water is quite heavy-8.3 pounds per U.S. gallon. Thus a 15-gallon fish tank weighs about 125 pounds. This is certainly no weight for a delicate end table to support. The base for a fish tank must be a sturdy one - flat and level. Any projections, tilt, or unsteadiness may cause leakage. The location should be a fairly permanent one. Fish tanks cannot be moved readily. Also, the height must be considered. It should be high enough to be seen standing up and low enough to be viewed comfortably while sitting down. An ideal height for a stand is 30″ to 36″.

Stands expressly designed for supporting aquaria are available. Most of these are equipped with a shelf which can be used for an auxiliary tank or for equipment. The artistically inclined often put plants on the shelf and train ivy up the legs to afford an exotic touch. These stands have a flat top, open in the center, with just a rim around the edge to support the tank. The center is left open so that water, which may accidentally drip, will not run under and accumulate below the tank. The outside rim which supports the fish tank only along the four edges is perfectly satisfactory.

When the stand rests on a rug or linoleum, furniture coasters should be used to prevent damage. Some buyers are surprised to see that there is no lip around a stand to prevent sliding. Because of a fish tank’s construction, all of the weight and pressure are directed straight down, and it would require a very heavy shove to dislodge a tank. In fact, a shove heavy enough to move a full fish tank is more likely to break the tank before moving it. The moral of the story is: don’t shove a full fish tank.

Think twice before putting a fish tank on an expensive piece of highly polished furniture. Working around an aquarium, water is often spilled, and tank water is injurious to polished surfaces unless it is wiped up immediately. Surfaces which heat up, such as television cabinets, may cause the cement to soften. Several layers of asbestos under the tank will prevent this. A table-top stand has recently become available. This is approximately 4″ high and is designed for holding fish tanks on furniture.

What You Must Know Before Releasing Your Fish Into Their New Aquarium

So you’ve went out and bought some fish and the store told you to float the bag for a while and then release them in a tropical fish tank, right? Wrong!

You need to make certain your fish are much more acclimated to the water in a tropical fish tank than that.

Don’t be afraid to ask anyone where you purchase the fish what you should do. They shouldn’t mind testing their water right in front of you.

They’re trying to sell fish right? Ask them for, at minimum, the pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate readings. When you get home, test your own water to see how much the two sets of results differ.

This can really help you set the right water for your tropical fish aquarium.

The floating bag method is probably the most common acclimation method and it works well. You just need to be careful when floating a bag full of unknown water in your tank. Ideally, you’re floating the bag in a previously setup quarantine tank but, sadly, many new hobbyists don’t use a quarantine tank. After you’ve been in this a while you can get much more used to how things are done.

Once you leave with your fish, you will want to go straight home to avoid ammonia accumulating in the bag (in the form of fish waste). Once you get home, open the top of the bag and remove about 25% of the water and then replace this water with the same amount of water from your tank.

Next, float the bag in your tank and bring down the hood opening on the open end of the bag to help keep the bag secure. Every 10 minutes add about 1 measuring cup (use less if the bag is smaller) of your tank water to the bag. Repeat this process for about an hour. After an hour has passed use a small net to get the fish out of the bag and gently place the fish into your tank. The main idea here is to slowly get the fish used to your tank water (acclimated). Do not dump the bag water into your tank! If you do, you risk exposing your tropical fish tank to risks.

Some fish may be difficult to net while in the bag and you don’t want to damage the fish while trying to net them. If you’re having difficulty netting the fish, get a large bowl (large salad bowl works well) and carefully pour the bag water into the net, allowing the bowl to catch the water. You could bypass the bowl altogether and do it over a sink but make sure that the drain plug is in place just in case you miss the fish with the net.

This is a great method to use because when you slowly put in the water, you are acclimating the water to the proper way it should be.