Aquarium Heaters for your Tropical Fish Tank

Heaters are no more expensive than any other small electrical appliance. Remember, heaters are using up electricity only when they are heating. Thermostats do not use up any current; they only conduct it or cut it off.

The warmer you keep your tanks in relation to the room temperature; the more electricity will be required. If you are concerned about the cost of electricity, keep your tanks in the warmest part of the warmest room - but not near a radiator - and maintain your tanks at the lowest safe temperature of 72° to 73° F.

Incidentally, it costs no more to operate a large heater when a small heater in the same size tank. The larger heater will simply heat up that much faster and shut off that much sooner. Many people are under the misconception that a heater gives off only the temperature at which the thermostat is set while heating. This is not so. A heater, once it starts heating, gets as hot as the resistance wire will allow, and stays at that high temperature until the thermostat shuts it off. Then it loses all its heat to the water. A heater does not feel hot to the touch while it is heating, because it is rapidly exchanging its heat with the water. The same heater in air becomes too hot to touch within seconds.

A test light can be wired to a heater, provided you know how to make the hook-up. If the test light goes on when the thermostat and heater are plugged in, turn the temperature control down until the light just flickers off. If the light fails to go on, turn the temperature control higher. The point at which the light flickers on or off is where thermostat is set for room temperature. A thermometer in the room will tell you what the room temperature is. From there it is a simple matter to turn the thermostat up or down.

If the light goes on and fails to shut off when the thermostat contact is broken, it is usually evidence of the failure of a condenser, which should be removed. The heater should then function normally. A new condenser should be put on as soon as possible, rather than operating without it. The absence of a condenser puts a strain on the contact points.

If the test light fails to go on, check the male plug and the contact points first; then look for a break in the element, or a black spot, which indicates a burned area.

Occasionally the points become so coated with carbon that they fail to make proper contact, or constant arcing may build up a high spot, preventing the contact from breaking properly. Fine sandpaper used carefully will remove those spots and return the unit to proper operating.

Tropical Fish Tanks - What is an Aquarium Heater?

A heater is the apparatus which provides the actual heat as opposed to the thermostat, which is the automatic switch for controlling heat. The majority of heaters made today are fabricated of nichrome resistance wire, which is wound around a ceramic core. Some are of nichrome which is wound on an asbestos backing, and a few have the resistance element imbedded in the ceramic. The tube may or may not be filled with sand.

Heaters are divided into two groups: those which are attached directly to a thermostat, either in the same tube or an adjoining one and those called combination heating unit, thermostatic control, condenser and pilot light. For convenience these items may be housed in the same tube with an attached hanger, or they may be located in two different tubes with a clip joining them and a hanger.

At the present time there is only one combination heater and thermostat that can be completely submerged in water. Most of them are designed to hang vertically on the aquarium, partly in the water. I specify “in the water” because I have found that a good many people, unless told otherwise, hang such heaters on the outside of the tank.

The water level should be one to two inches below the lip of the tube (or tubes) to prevent water from entering I lie heater. Always read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.

The cover glass (or hood), if used, should be cut away above the heater and/or thermostat to prevent condensed water from dripping into it.

The combination unit may have a knob on the top to adjust the temperature regulator. This is called an “outside-control.” An “inside-control” unit has the mechanism attached to the rubber cork stopper. Removal of the stopper lifts the unit, allowing the adjusting screw to be reached. It is advisable to unplug the unit before is removed for adjustment.

A word of warning: never put a hot heater into the water; it will crack. Always disconnect a heater before removing it from the water.

The heaters which are made independent of a thermostat may be sealed for submersion or may be hung on the side of the tank. These and the other types may be sand-filled.