Explore Your Creativity With An Aquarium

Tropical fish one of the most amazing pets that one could keep in their home or workplace. Tropical aquarium keeping is fast becoming an extremely popular hobby for many people young and old. Whether it is a small fishbowl with just a few fish or a 4 foot deluxe aquarium, tropical fish will make a beautiful center piece or highlight of any room.

There is nothing more relaxing than coming home after a hard day at work and watching your beautiful tropical aquarium with the fishes peacefully swimming around your carefully placed decorations and aquarium plants. You can set up your tank to show you a complex array of rock’s, wood, plants, and other decorations or you can aim for the simplistic approach. Either way you can express your own creativity, likes, and dislikes in how you choose to create your tropical fishes home.

With the popularity of tropical fish tanks, there is a wide variety of different types of decorations to choose from. Some people choose to take a humorous approach by setting up animated figures and cartoon characters, or skeletons and skulls. You could choose a medieval theme with castles and dragons, or keep it more natural with some fancy pieces of wood and rock.

Another big decision tropical fish I knows me to make is whether to have live plants, fake plants, or no plants at all in their aquarium. Of course this decision will be influenced by the type of fish you choose to keep in your tropical tank. Some fish will benefit more from having live plants in the aquarium while others will eat them quicker than they have a chance to lay their root’s. There are also a great many different species of plants available in a wide array of colors and features.

Whether to use rocks in your fish tank also depends on the species of fish you wishing to keep. For example some species such as cichlids need sheltered areas to claim their own territory, otherwise they may become aggressive towards the more timid fish in the aquarium. On the other hand there are species such as shoaling fish that will be a lot happier in a tank with wide open areas for them to swim in. If you decide to use real rocks you must be extremely careful where you get them from and that they are safe for use in aquariums. If in doubt fake rock’s are a good alternative.

Pieces of wood in an aquarium will also help fish that need area to claim as their own and more timid fish that like to have an area of safe retreat. If you are lucky enough to find a unique piece of wood that is safe for aquarium use it can be a very attractive addition to your aquarium. Live plants may even start growing around the wood and mosses will be attracted to its surface.

In summary how you choose to decorate your tropical fish tank is a very personal choice and one which will allow you to become very experimental and discover the creative side that you never knew you had. There are no rules or limitations that she must abide by as long as you put the health and well-being of your precious tropical fish first and foremost.

Choosing Your Aquarium Fish - 5 Important Tips

A short summary on what you should know before you purchase fish for an aquarium:
 
1. The type of the fish is extremely important. If you choose multiple fish species, make sure they are compatible. There are some predator fish species that must not be placed with calm and sociable fish for example. If you are a beginner, choose a species that doesn’t require that much care, that doesn’t need special living conditions. Also, choose a docile and friendly fish. It will be easier to have in the aquarium because it won’t cause trouble

2. Before buying any kind of fish, no matter the race, make sure the fish are healthy. Do that first by observation. Notice any change in the mood, swimming etc. check the fins and the scales, make sure they don’t have bumps or bruises. Also, buy the fish from local pet shops or from well known breeders. If you see fish that hang around on the bottom of the tank, that could be a sign that they might have an internal health problem. Besides that, if the fish is too active and jumps around all over the place, that could be an illness indication. It is better to keep away from these fish.
 
3. After choosing a species and checking the health status, also ask about the fish’s temperament. That is strictly connected to the water living conditions. Ask the breeder or the local pet store people what are the general living conditions of the fish. Stretch on the water temperature because that is very important. Keep in mind that saltwater fish prefer a different temperature than the freshwater fish.
 
4. Another aspect worthy of considering is the fish’s size. You will need to buy a tank. The size of the tank depends on the size of the fish. If it will grow to a considerable size, it is better to buy a big tank from the start rather than a small one and change it later, when the fish is adult.
 
5. Finally, make sure you know what your fish likes to eat. If you give him the wrong type of food that could seriously damage his health.  Many fish have different eating habits. Besides that, also ask about the price of the food for that fish. Make sure you can afford it before you purchase the fish.
 These are a few tips on how to become a fish owner. Nevertheless, continue to document on your self and learn as much as you can about fish caring.
 

Setting Up A New Fish Aquarium - A Detailed Guide

Setting up an aquarium is a process which can be systematized to save effort. If you follow the sequence given below, you will save yourself a lot of time, trouble, and work.

Wash your hands well and rinse them very thoroughly. It is not dangerous to put your hands in the aquarium even after the fishes have been put in, but it is only reasonable to have them clean to avoid the possibility of introducing toxic materials. Wash the tank thoroughly, using rock salt on a clean rag in place of scouring soap. Never use soap or any detergent to clean the inside of an aquarium. While they are not as dangerous as most people believe them to be, sufficient soap residue might very well cause trouble for your fishes. The little salt which might remain after the tank has been rinsed several times will do no harm.

If a “decal” or paint is to be used, now is the time to apply it while the tank is empty and easy to move. Positioning a mirror can be postponed until after the planting has been completed. Be sure that the background paint is dry before standing the tank upright.

Set the tank in what is t be its permanent position or location. Once the tank is filled, it is difficult to move without causing leaks. If moving the tank is necessary, siphon out at least three quarters of the water first. Make certain that the tank support is strong enough to hold it, and be’ sure that the surface is level.

Well washed gravel should now be spread out in the tank. It should slope from a high. Point along the back and sides to a lower area at front and center. The under-gravel filter, if one is to be used, must be placed on the bottom of the tank before the gravel is added, of course. In placing the gravel, a depth of 21/2 to 3 inches along the back and sides, sloping to 1 to 11/2 inches along the front, is satisfactory. If an under-gravel filter is used follow the manufacturer’s directions about the depth of gravel to be placed above the filter.

Now set in the objects you have chosen for your underwater scene. (See page 72.) If a diver or other ornamental aerator is to be used, attach the tubing to it before putting it into the tank. See that no crevices are left for dirt to drift into. Draw an imaginary line along the bottom from the center rear to each front corner. All rocks and ornaments, and, later, the plants, should be set behind the two lines, larger items in the rear, and smaller ones toward the front. This makes a pleasing arrangement, assures an even lighting for the plants, and allows for a clearing in front so the fishes may easily be seen.

A sheet of brown paper, or wax paper, or several layers of newspaper are now placed over the gravel. Stand a saucer or cup on this, and pour the water gently into the cup or saucer.

It is best to use water of about 75° F. for filling. Where the water is too cold, heat some and mix it with the cold water. This should be done in a separate container before putting it into the tank. Adding hot water to the tank can crack it. Usually running some hot water from the tap as the cold is drawn is the most satisfactory method of tempering the water.

For a large tank (more than 20 gallons) it is best to fill it only half full and postpone the balance of the work for a few days to allow the cement to settle. Smaller tanks may be filled to within a few inches of the top. The cup or saucer is then removed, and the paper drawn out by d. edges. Do not wring the paper out in the tank.

Straighten out any pockets in the gravel caused by /hawk filling; rearrange any rocks that may have moved.

If you have followed these instructions, the water will be reasonably clear and easily seen through. If it is gray or muddy, the gravel was probably not washed well enough. It will settle out if it stands, but any disturbance of the gravel will roil it up again. Under these circumstances it is best to empty the tank with a siphon and rewash the gravel.

Hang the filter in place, and put the stems and aerator into position. Do not attempt to start it yet. Hang the heater and thermostat’ in place, but do not plug them in.

Plant the larger plants in the corners first. One large, bushy plant, such as the Amazon Sword Plant, or a Cyptocoryne may be used as a center plant at the apex of the imaginary triangle.

Trim off any dead leaves and rinse the plants well before putting them into the tank. A good light on the tank while working makes planting work easier.

To plant, use planting tongs, or hold the plant an inch above the crown, between the tips of the thumb and the middle finger. With your hand held fingers down and the roots pointing down, the body of the plant now extends into the palm of your hand. Place the ball of your index finger on the crown of the plant. Then place the plant on the gravel a few inches away from the desired location. Slide the plant forward and down into the gravel so that it ends up in place. Should it be rooted too deeply, tug it up gently. Exceptionally long roots may be trimmed down to 2 or 3 inches. If you do not care to cut them, then gather them up into a more compact mass for ease in handling and planting.

Some particularly buoyant plants, such as Sagittaria and Watersprite, should be left planted deeply for three or four days. When the roots have had a chance to spread out a little, the plant can be pulled into position.

Hold your left hand, palm up just under the surface of the water. Hold the pitcher or bucket in the right hand and gently pour water into the left hand until the aquarium has been filled to a point just above the lower edge of the frame. A tank looks prettier when the waterline does not show.

Start the filter going, and plug in the heater. Be sure that the thermostat is set properly. If you must put the fishes right in, add chlorine neutralizer to the water. Check the pH, which has not had time to adjust itself. If necessary, adjust it to neutral. If you are going to wait a few days before putting the fishes in, do not check the pH until then. The chances are that the pH will adjust itself, given a little time.

Many fanciers advocate the addition of 1 teaspoonful of coarse salt to each 5 gallons of aquarium water when setting up a tank. This need not be repeated, unless water is drawn off and replaced when the same proportion of salt is replaced with it. The reason is that salt does not evaporate, but remains permanently in the aquarium.

Within a few hours after filling, tanks filled from the tap will have bubbles formed on the glass. These are excess gases which were dissolved in the cold water. The same gases may be seen forming bubbles when water is heated on the stove. These bubbles may cover everything, including the fishes. They are frequently mistaken for signs of disease on the fishes. The bubbles will disappear permanently within forty-eight hours.

What is a Balanced Aquarium?

Originally the concept of a balanced aquarium was that the standing aquarium is a self-contained microcosm - a little world. The theory ran that as the plants manufactured food through the process of photosynthesis; they utilized carbon dioxide and gave off oxygen. Fishes, on the other hand, gave off carbon dioxide and utilized oxygen. Fishes’ waste, according to the theory, fertilized the plants, while excess plant growth provided food for the fishes. One thing thus balanced another, and no outside care was required.

Unfortunately this theory simply does not hold up in practice. While plants do give off oxygen in excess of what they use for respiration, they do so only in the presence of bright light. When the aquarium is dark, they use up oxygen just as do the fishes. Water cannot store more oxygen than the amount required to keep it in equilibrium with the air above it. Excess oxygen passes off readily. The same does not hold true of carbon dioxide. It tends to stratify, forming layers along the bottom. (Circulation prevents this stratification.) Having a maximum air surface in proportion to the depth thus goes a long way toward keeping the aquarium properly “balanced.”

The waste matter produced by the fish is far in excess of the amount required by the plants. Moreover, most of our aquarium fishes are carnivorous, eating animal, not vegetable, matter. Even the more herbivorous species require some animal food.

So the idea of a “balanced aquarium” is a fallacy in its original concept. An “aquarium in balance” is, however, what can be achieved.

The factors that modify an aquarium more or less balance each other includes the proper amount of light (too much over stimulates algae, too little does not permit plant growth); the proper amount of food (too little stunts the fishes, too much pollutes the aquarium); the proper number of fishes; the correct size of aquarium, and the proper temperature, etc. All of these things must be in proper “balance” with respect to themselves and the others if the aquarium is to flourish.

Treating The Water In Your Aquarium

The water in the tank is a vital element for the fish. Its quality has to be very good and appropriate for the type of fish you have.There are some general aspects common to every fish species. For example, all fish like a pH measurement of acid and/or base water. Usually, the best pH level is between 6.5 and 7.5. Lower concentrations or higher damage the fish’s health.

What about the water type?
You need water treatments to improve the tap water you put in your tank.
Depending on the species, fish like water types like: soft water, hardness, saltwater, alkalinity and so on. The alkalinity of the water is established by a series of test results. Alkalinity is good for the fish, because it regulates the pH balance. The hard water has a lot of minerals, which is often unregulated. Soft water on the other hand, can’t produce dissolved minerals and if the water is made soft by different machines, is doesn’t have a big amount of minerals.

Water treatments

All water treatments have NH3, NO2, and NO3. NH3 is the symbol for ammonia, NO2 is the symbol for nitrites and NO3 is for nitrates. Don’t forget that fish produce ammonia naturally with their waste. The ammonia then becomes nitrites.

If you don’t have experience in owning fish, you should use a kit to test the tank water before introducing fish into the aquarium. The kits have different tools that will indicate the level of nitrites, chlorine, ammonia, nitrates, or any other chemicals in the water.

There a common myth which says that salt must be added to the water in the tank. That is not true. Salt can damage the fish skin. Only some tropical fish species like salt in the water because it relieves stress.

Many people use tap water to fill the tank. This water has big amounts of chloramines and chlorine. Fish, unlike us, can’t survive if they ingest chlorine or chloramines. Besides these two substances, the tap water also has hypochlorite, used to disinfect it.

Before you fill the tank with water, let it stand a bit to remove the chemicals or let the tap run for five minutes.

Ideal is to purify the water with treatments that contain solutions that are decholorinator-based. The decholorinator cleans of chloramines but the bad thing is that it releases ammonia.

Verify the tap water before you put it into the tank. Do this before buying any water treatment.

You can find out what your water contains by calling the local water company. Explain to them what your problem is so that they understand why you inquire upon the water contents.

Normally, tap water has copper, chloramines, chlorine, metal, phosphates, and Trichloroethylene.

If you discover that your tap water has chlorinate, use a water treatment, like thiosulphate dechlorinators that are sodium based.

But if there are other substances in the water, talk to someone from your local pet store and ask for advice. They will tell you what kind of water treatment to use.

Besides purchasing an aquarium and fish, you will also need to clean the tank and use buckets, nets a hose and other accessories that can be found in the pet store. And don’t forget to stay up to date on the latest aquarium water treatments.

Tropical Fish Tanks - What is an Aquarium Heater?

A heater is the apparatus which provides the actual heat as opposed to the thermostat, which is the automatic switch for controlling heat. The majority of heaters made today are fabricated of nichrome resistance wire, which is wound around a ceramic core. Some are of nichrome which is wound on an asbestos backing, and a few have the resistance element imbedded in the ceramic. The tube may or may not be filled with sand.

Heaters are divided into two groups: those which are attached directly to a thermostat, either in the same tube or an adjoining one and those called combination heating unit, thermostatic control, condenser and pilot light. For convenience these items may be housed in the same tube with an attached hanger, or they may be located in two different tubes with a clip joining them and a hanger.

At the present time there is only one combination heater and thermostat that can be completely submerged in water. Most of them are designed to hang vertically on the aquarium, partly in the water. I specify “in the water” because I have found that a good many people, unless told otherwise, hang such heaters on the outside of the tank.

The water level should be one to two inches below the lip of the tube (or tubes) to prevent water from entering I lie heater. Always read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.

The cover glass (or hood), if used, should be cut away above the heater and/or thermostat to prevent condensed water from dripping into it.

The combination unit may have a knob on the top to adjust the temperature regulator. This is called an “outside-control.” An “inside-control” unit has the mechanism attached to the rubber cork stopper. Removal of the stopper lifts the unit, allowing the adjusting screw to be reached. It is advisable to unplug the unit before is removed for adjustment.

A word of warning: never put a hot heater into the water; it will crack. Always disconnect a heater before removing it from the water.

The heaters which are made independent of a thermostat may be sealed for submersion or may be hung on the side of the tank. These and the other types may be sand-filled.

Introducing Fish into the Tropical Aquarium

Many people receive fishes shipped from out-of-town sources. Often prompt and proper action must be taken upon their arrival to insure their continued life.

Examine the carton carefully before opening it. If it is wet or damaged, mark the fact on the receipt before signing it. Make the carrier wait and watch while you open the shipment. Check the water temperature immediately. Do not remove any fishes which appear to be dead, unless they are obviously decayed or physically damaged. Many tropical fish can be revived.

If the water is below 70° F., it is important to warm it to a higher temperature. Do not remove the fishes and put them into other warmer water. Instead, add warm water to the original water. Stir as you add the warm water to prevent hot water from touching the fishes. Warming the water slowly is dangerous. The fishes may die before the water gets warm enough to help them.

Once a desired temperature has been reached, change part of the water for fresh water. If the original water was foul, continue making partial changes at intervals until the water is clear. The water which is dipped out is thrown away. This process over a period of hours will give the fishes a chance to adjust to the different composition of your water.

Fishes bought from local source are usually brought home in a small container. These containers should be allowed to float unopened in the aquarium for fifteen minutes. This allows the water in the container to equal the temperature of the tank water. Remove the cover carefully. The fishes are likely to jump as soon as they see the light. Partially submerge the container slowly so that some water from the tank gradually runs into it. Pour out part of the water and repeat. Do this several times before completely submerging the container and letting the fishes swim out.

When transferring fishes from one tank to another, the same procedure is followed. Dip some of the fishes’ own water out in a container and place the fishes in that for transferring. It is unnecessary to float the container first,

Many aquarists maintain newly acquired fishes in separate tanks for ten days or two weeks. This helps to reveal any latent disease before it might be transmitted to the other fishes. During this time strict isolation is practiced. Utensils (net, dip tube, etc.) are disinfected, water drips are avoided, and even hands are scrubbed and rinsed thoroughly before going from one tank to the other.

A fairly good isolation ward for two or three small fishes is a squat one-gallon jar floating in the aquarium. By experimenting with the amount of water in the jar you can determine the proper amount to keep it upright and buoyant. This type of jar can be used for breeding also. A breeding trap, with its perforations which permit the circulation of water, is of course valueless for isolation.

Selecting a Aquarium

A start can be made with a small aquarium, inexpensive fishes, and a minimum of equipment from $25 to $35. I have also seen people start off with a large aquarium, expensive equipment, and fishes, paying about $400 for the initial investment. In either case, the purchaser was satisfied because he got what he wanted and bought within his means. If you cannot afford a large aquarium, by all means start with a small one. You can have just as much fun.

There are certain basic rules which should be learned when you are buying an aquarium. Each person has individual problems. It is not necessary to learn everything in order to keep an aquarium. The fact that millions of people have kept and are keeping aquariums throughout the world is in itself proof that it is not too difficult for the average person to learn in limited time. The first criterion usually is price. Don’t spend more than you can comfortably afford. I would suggest that the beginner select a 10- to 20-gallon aquarium for a start. A 10-gallon aquarium measures, in inches, 20Lx10Wx12H. A 20-gallon tank is 24Lx12Wx16H. The 20-gallon tank is also made in a longer, lower shape, measuring 30Lx12Wx 12H. I consider these ideal intermediate sizes for a beginner. They are not too expensive, and they are the easiest to set up and care for. To estimate the gallon capacity of a tank, multiply the width by the length by the height in inches and divide by 231.

If you want to use a fish bowl as a main aquarium, it will be sadly deficient. The largest fish globe made today in a standard size holds 2 gallons when filled to the brim. Because the sides of a fish bowl are curved, it is most efficient when filled only to its widest part. This gives you a maximum of water surface exposed to the air but reduces the capacity of the bowl to 11 gallons of water. (Air surface and its relationship to the life of the fish will come up again.) This is just not enough water to maintain a satisfactory aquarium.

Diseases that Effect Tropical Fish

After investing a lot of time and money into your tropical fish and aquarium, it’s important to protect that investment by learning about the various disease that can harm and kill your tropical fish. I will provide you with a basic overview of common disease and how to identify them. But if you’re serious about protecting your fish (and you should be) you should read all the other information we have to offer.

The first disease is called Shimmy. You’ll see normally your fish’s fins are very animated. However, if your fish is swimming around the aquarium without moving its fins, this can be a sign it has Shimmy. It’s important to treat this right away.

The next thing to be on the lookout for are Ich spots. If you start to notice a bunch of small white circles showing up on your fish, it probably has Ich spots. This is a skin disease that can be very harmful to your tropical fish, and you should get some medicine to cure it as soon as possible.

Another similar type of Ich spots to look out for are tiny red spots on your fish. These red spots will grow larger if they go untreated, and if they grow too large they can kill your fish, or cause it to catch a deadlier tropical fish disease. Again, there is medicine you can get to feed your fish to cure this disease before it gets too bad.

Your fish won’t always show outward signs of infection, so you have to monitor its eating habits as well. Sick fish usually don’t eat, this is the easiest way to tell if something is wrong with your tropical fish. If you have multiple fish that normally interact, but you notice one avoiding the other fish, this is also a sign something may be wrong. Stick your finger in the tank and try to “scare” a suspected sick fish. If he doesn’t react and shows disinterest, he is probably sick.

There are many types of tropical fish medicines you can get at your local pet store or veterinarians office. If you don’t know exactly what’s wrong with your pet fish, write down as many symptoms as possible (like the ones I talked about in this article) and hopefully an expert will be able to properly diagnose the problem. Rest assured that if there is something wrong with your beautiful tropical fish, there is most likely a medicine you can give to your fish to cure the problem.

Tiger Barb (Barbus Tetrazona)

The Tiger Barb fish is native to Sumatra and Borneo and it’s also known as the Sumatran Barb. This fresh water fishes original habitat would have been a tropical area where the water temperature was fairly high, and they would be located in fairly shallow water of either medium to fast moving streams, or swampy lakes.

Puntius tetrazona is the scientific name of this fish and it can reach a length of 6cm (2.4 inches). It belongs to the Cyprinidae (minnow) family.

This is a very widely kept fresh water fish species and rates at about the 10th most popular ornamental fish species.

The water temperature in the aquarium should vary between 20 and 25C (68 to 77F). The water should be either medium-hard or soft. They can be fed plant matter, crustaceans, worms and dried food. They need a good balance of meat and vegetable matter. A quality flake food is a good start but this should be supplemented with foods such as bloodworms and zucchini.

A fish that is colorful and quite good looking, the Tiger Barb’s base color is orange. There are four stripes, colored black, vertical on his body.

This fish is great for a beginner, as long as your aquarium is big enough. You should keep a minimum of 5 fish of the same type in the tank, because they enjoy shoaling. If there aren’t enough of them, they might become aggressive with other species you might keep in the tank. In such cases, they will nibble on the fins of those fish, especially when they have fins that are long and trailing.

You shouldn’t keep Guppies or Angelfish in the same aquarium with Tiger Barbs. You can think of these fish as the bad boys of the aquarium as they do tend to be fin nippers and are often aggressive towards more timid fish. Ideally you should keep no less than 5 fish from the barb species, because smaller shoals will be more likely to show this territorial behavior and attack their neighbors. In fact the larger the group the better, as this will encourage them to leave the gentler fish alone.

Tiger barbs should ideally be kept in a tank with a pH between 6 and 8, and a dH of 5-19.

Breeding the Tiger Barbs is possible. They reach sexual maturity when they are around 2 to 3 centimeters at the young age of about 8 weeks. The female is larger than the male and has a plumper belly, she also has a black dorsal fin. You should let them choose their pair on their own, and once they do that, move the fish to another aquarium, where they can leave the eggs. Once the eggs are laid, take the adults out of the tank and get them back inside the community aquarium. If they are left with the eggs, they will eat them.

This species will also enjoy shoaling with Golden and Green Barbs, so you can create aquariums with plenty of variety in them. You should place enough vegetation on the aquarium edges while leaving enough room for them to swim. Pieces of wood, rocks, and plenty of plants will be appreciated. The length of the aquarium should be at least 60cm (24 inches).

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