Essential Aquarium Accessories
May 15, 2009 by admin
Filed under Fish Tank Supplies
Below are some of the aquarium accessories that are necessary for the proper maintenance of an aquarium.
A constant level siphon is designed to maintain the water level of an aquarium from going higher than a specified height. It does not empty itself when the flow ceases, but remains ready to resume its function automatically when the water level rises. It is especially useful to prevent overflow in aquaria where there is constant inflow of water.
A dip tube is a plastic or glass tube, usually 12 to 18 inches long, comprises the principal part of a dip tube. Glass tubes are extremely fragile, however. There is usually a bulbous section near the bottom, narrowing down again at the mouth. Some models have a flared mouth to eliminate picking up gravel. To operate this tool, one finger is held over the top, tightly closing it. The mouth of the tube is placed in the aquarium directly over the dirt or debris to be removed. When the finger is removed, the water rushes in, carrying the dirt with it. The dip tube is emptied by inverting it into a container. There are also “take-apart” dip tubes which can be dismantled after use for greater ease in cleaning. A dip tube is more convenient than a siphon for removing a small amount of debris and also for working in smaller tanks.
A power dip tube is a modification of an inside filter operating from the air pump. The air-lift tube is lengthened enough to reach the bottom of the aquarium. Usually a handle is provided for convenience. For best results all the air that the pump provides should be used, it drains through the filtering material back into the tank. Usually only glass wool is used as a filter medium.
The power dip tube is faster than an ordinary dip tube in use, but not as fast as a siphon. It is particularly useful to people who do not have a source of water suitable for fishes readily available and therefore wish to reuse what they have. New aquarium vacuum cleaners serve the same purpose, but have built-in motors and cloth and it is also used like a squeegee to polish the glass. The razor blade is used for the removal of tougher algal growth. This latter type of scraper is not rust-proof and should be taken apart and dried carefully after use. The sponge aquarium glass cleaners are excellent sack filters.
An aquarium scraper is a long-handled razor blade holder. It is used to scrape the inside of the aquarium glass. Some scrapers have a rubber blade in addition to the razor blade. The rubber is used for removing soft settlings.
Planting tongs are long-handled forceps to make possible the removal or placement of items in the aquarium without putting your hands in the water. They are also convenient for use in closer quarters. In planting, the crown of the plant is placed in the tip of the tongs with the plant parallel with the tongs. It is then slid into place. Never poke a plant straight down. Start an inch or two away from the desired location and slide it forward and down. If it is placed too deeply, tug at it very gently and bring it to the desired height. Two sticks with their ends flattened and notched are often used for planting. One is used to hold the plant down, while the other pushes gravel over the roots.
Planting scissors are long-handled scissors which are used to trim aquatic vegetation. Tying sticks to the handles of an old pair of scissors works admirably.
Feed rings are rings, usually glass or plastic, which float. They are used because dry food placed on the water has a tendency to spread out over the surface and drop in all areas of the aquarium. A feed ring prevents this spreading. Food which drops below it can be located and removed more easily with a dip tube. Don’t get too small a feeding ring. Make sure that there is room for all the fishes under it. In some cases one fish will become the other fishes away from the ring. In that case, it is advisable to use two or even three rings. If there is a bully fish driving all the other fishes away from the ring, it is advisable to use two or even three rings.
A worm feeder is made of glass or plastic and is shaped like a cup. It has a number of small perforations in the bottom. It floats at the surface. Tubifex or white worms, when placed in it, wriggle slowly through the holes, to be consumed by the waiting fishes below. This eliminates the possibility of their crawling into the gravel, as might happen if the worms were just dropped into the water. It also enables you to determine just how many worms the fishes eat. As with the feeding ring, so with the worm ring: if you are feeding a large number of fishes, or if one fish dominates the feeding area, use several rings.
There are different types of worm feeders available. A worm feeder will keep live tubifex worms in one place. This will allow all of your fishes an opportunity to feed on the worms and prevent the worms from entrenching themselves in the gravel.
Suction cups are small rubber suction cups with a rubber band or a thin stainless steel wire attached. They have many uses in keeping the aquarium neat. They can be used to keep air-line tubing in place, to keep feed rings from floating away, to attach thermometers in an easy-to-read position, and so on.
An aquarium pH testing kit is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of the aquarium. This value is expressed in numbers: 7.0 is neutral; a value above 7.0 (7.4, 8.0, etc.) is alkaline; below 7.0 is acid (6.9, 5.8, etc.).
The majority of our aquarium fishes thrive at a pH near neutral. Most fishes will withstand a change from water of one pH to water of another pH provided the change is gradual.
There are two types of inexpensive kits available to aquarists for measuring pH. One involves the use of u liquid indicator dye, bromthymol blue. A drop or two of the indicator is placed into measured amount of aquarium water. The color of the sample is then compared with a color chart provided for that purpose. Also useful is the roll of impregnated paper which is specially designed for accurate pH readings. It contains a roll of paper in a plastic dispenser. A small strip of this paper is torn off, dipped into the water, and held up a few seconds to dry. The drop of color which forms on the end is then compared with the color chart which is provided on the case of the pH tester.
The aquarium pH can be altered by the addition of chemicals: sodium bicarbonate to make it more alkaline, and sodium biphosphate to make it acid.
A properly set up and cared-for tank will remain at or near neutral by itself. A constant variation or tendency to become too acid or alkaline indicates an unbalanced tank and should be investigated.
